Alentejo - Olá Daniela

9 places to visit in Portugal this summer

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Tue, 10 Jun 2025 12:02:53 +0000

Summer in Portugal is a sun-drenched dream with long beach days and wall-to-wall festivals and events, where every esplanada (terrace) is filled with happy people enjoying the weather and a few (too many) Super Bocks.

While summer is a fun time to explore Portugal, it is peak season, so the most popular places will be super busy. I suggest you visit these popular spots in either June or September, or choose an alternative idea from this list. (Don’t worry, they’re all winners!)

If you’re wondering where to go in Portugal this summer, here are a few ideas for the best places to visit in June, July, or August – whether you’re into surf towns, island escapes, or slow sunny adventures.

Summer tip: August is peak summer high season, with every European person on vacation. Students finish school around mid-June, with the school year starting in mid-September, but it’s August (when most parents and many workers can take time off) that is the craziest and hottest month. Therefore, in August, I’d avoid the more popular destinations, such as the western and central parts of the Algarve.

Alentejo Coast, a slow summer escape to Melides or Comporta

Just a 70-minute drive south of Lisbon lies the wild, usually empty beaches of Comporta and Melides. I’m not the biggest fan of Comporta – an area that attracts Europe’s jet-set crowd for private, barefoot luxury resorts – but Melides retains its Portuguese heart of soul. There’s not much to do but beach hop, read books, laze by the pool, and eat at a handful of restaurants. It’s the ideal place to switch off for sunny summer days.

Best things to do in Comporta & Melides this summer

Beach hop along the coast, exploring somewhere new each day
Ride horses on the beach near Comporta with Cavalos na Areia
Shop at the chic and bougie boutiques in Comporta, particularly for homewares
Keep an eye out for the summer cork tree harvest
Visit the Cais Palafítico da Carrasqueira, a rickety, zig-zagging pier, built in the 1950s and ‘60s by local fishermen
Take a boat trip along the Sado to Alcácer do Sal, or go dolphin watching in Troia
Visit the 381st Feira de Agosto to shop and eat street food in nearby Grândola

Where to stay

I stayed one night at À Espera, a new guesthouse at the border of the Comporta and Melides area. It’s a beautiful little escape with a delicious breakfast and a pool to laze by. Then I switched to Ponte Pedra, an adults-only rural retreat with a large pool, cozy cabanas, bar service, free bicycles, and a yoga deck.

How to get there

Life moves slowly along this stretch of coast. While you could take a bus or transfer down here and then borrow bikes or use Uber/Bolt, having a car is the way to go.

Monsaraz, for surreal Alentejo sunsets

Best time: June or September

Golden hour seems infinite in Monsaraz. This medieval village, perched on the highest hill, with views as far as the eye can see, is the most magical in Portugal. Incredible scenery stretches endlessly in every direction beyond the preserved village walls as the sun dawdles downward, casting a glow all the way to Spain.

Best things to do in Monsaraz and nearby this summer

Catch an immense Alentejo sunset from the walls of the ancient castle
Wander the four streets of Monsaraz, taking in the details
Swim at the praia fluvial on the lake, just below the town. There’s a fake sandy beach and lifeguards
Visit Portugal’s largest pottery village, Corval, on the way
Visit in June to catch the Feira de São João in Évora

Summer tip: Portugal has hundreds of praia fluviais, or what we might call river beaches in English. If you head inland during the summer, jump on Google Maps and type in praia fluvial to find a freshwater beach on a creek, river, or lake.

Read next: Full guide to Monsaraz

Where to eat

Sahida
Sabores de Monsaraz
Xarez (best located for sunset with dinner)
Taverna Os Templários

How to get there

Monsaraz sits a two-hour drive from Lisbon, and I’d suggest pairing it with a weekend in Évora or a countryside stay. You can take the train to Évora, but from there it pays to have a car.

Olhão, a seafood-heavy escape in the Eastern Algarve

Best time: anytime June – September

Olhão, a small whitewashed eastern Algarve town, is easily one of my favourite places in Portugal and somewhere I’ve returned to again and again. It’s hard to describe why I love this slightly beaten-up fishing town so much. Maybe it’s the relaxed yet buzzing vibe, the narrow alleyways of the old town that resemble a medina, or the huge waterfront market halls that hide treasures of the land and the sea.

Whatever the draw, there’s nothing like spending a week here soaking up sunshine, skipping off to small Algarve villages, and indulging in endless seafood. Bliss.

Best things to do in Olhão & the Eastern Algarve this summer

Visit the huge daily fish and fresh produce market on the waterfront
Catch a ferry to one of the sandbank islands for a relaxed beach day
Visit a local olive producer or winery
Go walking in the Ria Formosa wetlands reserve
Explore nearby towns, such as Tavira
Catch the Festival do Marisco in August, or visit Castro Marim for the Dias Medievais fair

Where to eat

Chá Chá Chá
Vai e Volta

How to get there

Olhão is less than a 20-minute taxi ride from Faro airport or a three-hour drive from Lisbon. Olhão is on the Algarve regional train line, which is handy – although you’ll have to change lines on the way down from Lisbon.

June festas in Lisbon, São João in Porto

Best time: Lisbon, all month but especially the night of June 12; Porto, just the night of June 23

June is a very religious month… which Portugal celebrates by partying non-stop. Three saints are honoured in June: Santo António, São João, and São Pedro (Anthony, John, and Peter).

Best things to do during Santos in June

Lisbon celebrates with a month-long party, known as Santos Populares, with pop-up bars, sardine grills, and stages in traditional neighbourhoods across the city. The biggest night is the evening of June 12, when everyone gathers to dance to pimba music, drink beer, and stay up until dawn. You’ll find a handful of unique traditions detailed in my guide.

Porto turns into a party for just one night – June 23 – each year. Naturally, there’s also terrible (yet perfect) music, dancing, street food, and beer, but São João has its unusual traditions too. In Porto, you’ll be bopped on the head with martelinhos – oversized plastic hammers – plus after dark, people begin releasing small paper hot air balloons, casting a fairytale glow across the entire city.

Where to eat

On the big party nights, you’ll find ample street food stalls where you can order simple dishes such as grilled sardines on bread, a bifana (pork sandwich), or a fartura (rustic cinnamon churro). For serious eats, refer to my Lisbon food guide and Porto food guide.

Minho, the verdant north – Viana do Castelo’s August Romaria, and Peneda-Gerês National Park

Best time: 12-20 August 2025 in Viana do Castelo, anytime in Peneda-Gerês

Summer in Portugal is a great time to explore the far north. The Minho region, which touches the border with Spain, has beautiful and wild beaches, a rich local culture, stacks of history, and is famous for vinho verde (green wine).

Best things to do in Minho this summer

If I were visiting in summer, I’d try to time my trip to align with Viana do Castelo’s annual Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia. Every August, the town – famous for its embroidery and filigree jewellery – throws this huge religious festival that celebrates faith, folklore, and cultural heritage with concerts, parades, processions, folk dancing, and fireworks. The highlight (for me, at least) is the Desfile da Mordomia, a parade where nearly 1,000 local women parade in traditional clothing. It’s thought to be the biggest public display of gold in the world, as they all wear their heirloom jewellery pieces.

I’d pair my visit with a nature escape to Peneda-Gerês National Park, Portugal’s only national park. Here you can hike trails, swim at river beaches, and visit small villages within the park. The castle at Castro Laboreiro holds a special place in my memories, and you can’t miss the historic village of Soajo.

How to get there

It’s easy to reach Viana do Castelo by train, but the national park requires a car or a guide – there are lots of day trips available from Porto if you’re keen.

Read next… Guide to autumn in Portugal

Peniche & Berlenga Islands

Best time: hot summer days, June – September

“Ah, the Oeste,” a friend said when I described how the fog came in on a gorgeous summer day in Peniche. Even on a perfectly sunny day, this patch of coastline north of Lisbon can be unpredictable – but the best time of year is certainly summer. Peniche is a raw and authentic fishing town and the launching point for the Berlengas Islands, a reserve that you can reach by crossing rough seas in the summer.

Best things to do in Peniche this summer

Take a guided boat trip to the Berlengas Islands. This nature reserve is truly beautiful, though the sea can be choppy
Visit the National Museum of Resistance and Freedom, a must-visit for anyone interested in Portugal’s anti-fascist resistance movement of the 1970s. It’s free for Portuguese residents
Laze on the beach at Praia dos Supertubos, or on either side of the mini Baleal peninsula
Visit the market in Peniche to shop for fruit or fish
Drop into the Museu da Renda de Bilros de Peniche to learn about the tradition of lace making

Where to eat

Tasco do Joel
Taberna do Ganhão (Baleal)
Marisqueira Mirandum

How to get there

Peniche is a 70-minute drive from Lisbon. Alternatively, catch a coach bus with Rede Expressos. The boat out to Berlengas usually takes around 40 minutes.

Summer days in Arrábida Natural Park, near Lisbon

Best time: perfect sunny, summer days between May and October

Note: Arrábida Natural Park closes to traffic in the peak of summer, making it a little bit trickier. With the restrictions, you can still drive close to Portinho da Arrábida, and some restaurants offer quad bike shuttles.

One of my favourite Lisbon day trips is Arrábida Natural Park, a paradise 50 minutes south of Lisbon. Each summer in Portugal, I’ve made some of my favourite memories exploring this coastal park that feels like a Mediterranean forest meets the Caribbean.

Best things to do in Setúbal & Arrábida this summer

Start with a visit to Setúbal‘s incredible daily market, Mercado do Livramento. This market is one of the best in Portugal, and I’ve detailed why here
Or start with a cheese factory tour and tasting at Queijaria Simões
Stay in Setúbal for lunch to eat the local specialty, choco frito (fried cuttlefish)
Or visit the village of Portinho da Arrrábida. Here I’d reserve a waterfront table at O Farol for the seafood rice (and everything else on the menu)
Spend the afternoon lazing on the beach (with one eye on the lookout for wild boars)
On the return to Lisbon, cross the mountain range to the wine town of Azeitão. Here you can join a wine tasting or drop into a bar, but I usually visit my favourite tile producer
At Azulejos do Azeitão, the super nice owner usually shows us how tiles are made, and we explore the atelier and showroom. You can do a tile painting workshop here if you book ahead

Where to eat

O Farol, Portinho da Arrábida
Adega Leo do Petisco, Setúbal

How to get there

The easiest way to do this day trip is by car, though guided tours are also available if you’d rather sit back and let someone else do the driving. Alternatively, you can take a train from Lisbon to Setúbal, then a water taxi to Portinho da Arrábida, and finally an Uber/Bolt back to Lisbon (with or without a stop in Azeitão).

Azores escape to São Miguel & Terceira islands

Best time: May through September for weather, June to August for whale watching

Want somewhere cooler, greener, and way off the beaten path this summer? The Azores are calling. São Miguel and Terceira – two of the archipelago’s largest and most accessible islands – offer dramatic volcanic craters, lush hiking trails, and natural hot springs. I can’t wait to visit in June to slow down in a place where the landscapes are Portugal meets Iceland, Hawaii, and New Zealand all at once.

The summer months collide with the best season for whale watching, coastal picnics, and soaking in steamy thermal pools under a sky that stays light past nine o’clock.

Best things to do on São Miguel & Terceira this summer

Join a whale and dolphin watching cruise in the summer
Soak in steamy hot springs in the rainforest on São Miguel
Explore geothermal power in Furnas on São Miguel
Go canyoning down rivers or hiking on epic trails
Visit the inside of a volcano on Terceira
See the Sanjoaninas festival on Terceira Island in June
Explore wine making and ocean pools on Terceira

How to get there

It’s easy to fly to either Terceira or São Miguel from the mainland, and smaller flights with SATA connect the two. Once on the islands, either rent a car or book day trips with guides.

Read next… 3-day itinerary for Terceira Island

Late summer western Algarve escape

Best time: The Algarve is summer. September is more fun than July or August

Come September, the Algarve starts to exhale. The summer crowds thin, and yet the water – after a long, hot summer – is at its best. I’ve noticed the Portuguese summers often stretch well into October, so you’ll still enjoy spontaneous swims at one of Lagos’ best beaches, cliffside walks around Ponta da Piedade, and long seafood lunches that stretch into late afternoons.

Best things to do in Lagos & the Western Algarve

Swim at Praia do Camilo, or one of Lagos’ dreamy beaches
Kayak through the sea caves at Ponta da Piedade
Take a hike along coastal paths with the scent of wild herbs in the air
Take a boat tour to spot dolphins or explore sea caves
Wander the old town of Lagos and visit the daily fish market
Watch the sunset from Cabo de São Vicente in Sagres, for that “end of the world” feeling
Catch the Silves Medieval Fair in August

How to get there

It’s easy to reach the Algarve coast. Fly into Faro in the centre, then either rent a car or take a train to Lagos. From Lisbon, the train will drop you in the middle of the coast; however, if you’re aiming for Lagos, it’s faster to take a coach bus from the capital.

Aveiro & Costa Nova

Best time: July during the Canal Festival

An hour south of Porto lies Aveiro, a small city with a handful of canals and stunning art nouveau architecture (and the unfortunate nickname of the “Venice of Portugal”). There’s always plenty going on in the old town, which is protected from the open ocean by a huge lagoon. But, I suggest heading out to Costa Nova to discover wide and windy, white-sand beaches, along with rows of the famous striped houses.

Best things to do in Aveiro this summer

Go for unrushed summer days with icy ocean swims, long fish lunches, and jugs of vinho verde wine
Explore Aveiro’s canals by traditional moliceiro boat
Visit in July for the Festival dos Canais, and avoid August crowds
Eat ovos moles, a traditional sweet invented here
Get cultured at the Art Nouveau Museum or the Aveiro Museum
Walk the salt pans and learn about traditional salt harvesting
Learn about ceramics at the Vista Alegre factory

Where to eat

O Augusto
Zico
Mercantel
Taberna do Arco

How to get there

Aveiro is a stop on the high-speed train between Lisbon and Porto, making it easy to reach. Otherwise, it’s a one-hour drive south of Porto and about 2.5 hours from Lisbon by car.

That’s where to go this summer in Portugal. Anywhere else I should add to the list? Leave me a comment…

Keep reading….

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Hotel Review: A weekend at Hotel Convento de São Paulo

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Tue, 03 Jun 2025 08:24:40 +0000

Alentejo sunsets always feel a little unreal – like someone’s nudged the saturation just slightly too far. That warm evening glow was our welcome to Hotel Convento de São Paulo, a place that had felt like a myth in my mind. We arrived as the sun was dropping low behind the Serra d’Ossa, after a slow drive along winding roads thick with eucalyptus, cork trees, and scrubby native brush.

Years ago, I’d heard about this independent convent-hotel filled with historic tiles located somewhere in the Alentejo, and ever since, the idea of staying there has lived rent-free in my head. What I didn’t realise from the pictures is that the convent is an 800-year-old building tucked deep in the wild hills of the Serra d’Ossa.

Here’s what it was like to enjoy a slow, long weekend stay at the Hotel Convento de São Paulo.

This review is not affiliated or sponsored by the hotel. I stayed and paid independently via Booking.com.

The drawcard: an ancient convent and its 54,000 tiles

What initially drew me to this hotel was its collection of tiles – some 54,000 blue-and-white illustrated azulejos. It turns out it is the largest private collection in Portugal.

Thousands date back to the 1700s, including the tiles lining the staircases and corridors that stretch on forever. It was incredible to soak in the history, wander the cloisters, and discover historic fountains. During your stay, you’ll have free run of the place to explore the many halls, chapels, corners, and common spaces.

I loved staying here, and beyond the architecture and azulejos, what will guarantee my return is the tranquil, natural setting. The convent is set within a 750-hectare (approximately 1,853-acre) property with gardens and woodland. When we visited in spring, we found a lush green landscape in bloom with colourful wildflowers everywhere and trails to explore.

Overall, it’s a well-maintained, but in no way glossy, hotel. It’s a place that takes you back in time, ideal for dreamers, history lovers, and appreciators of heritage.

Book your stay at Hotel Convento de São Paulo

What’s the story behind the hotel?

Back in 1182, a group of hermits, known as the São Paulo Ermita Monk Order, retreated into these hills to live in silence. Over the centuries their spiritual outpost grew into a fully fledged monastery layered with thousands of azulejos, frescoed ceilings, and walls we wish could talk. They’d tell tales of Portuguese kings and queens who once stayed here, including Dom Sebastião back in 1577.

The convent was abandoned in the early 19th century, when Portugal’s ruling royals dissolved religious orders. A private family eventually restored the Convento de São Paulo, which is home to the largest private collection of tiles in the country. Now the extensive property is both a hotel and museum of sorts, with cloisters, grounds and woodland to explore, adding to the fun of your stay.

Where is the hotel?

Hotel Convento de São Paulo feels remote, but it’s not isolated. It’s set on a quiet road between Estremoz and Redondo, two gorgeous Alentejo towns that offer plenty of things to do.

Estremoz, about 20 minutes away, is known for its Saturday market, marble quarries, and a whitewashed old town wrapped around a castle. Redondo, smaller and sleepier, is famous for its pottery workshops and slow village rhythm. I’ll share more about both below.

What’s it like to stay there? The room and service

We stayed in one of the annexe double rooms – just outside the main building, across from reception. It was quiet and comfortable, but a little detached from the action. To reach the cloisters, restaurant, pools, or breakfast refectory, you have to pass through reception and cross the main entrance. Next time, I’d choose one of the 40 rooms tucked within the old convent itself for a more immersive experience.

The rooms are traditionally styled, with dark wood, metal furniture, and a touch of old-world charm. Ours came with a pink marble-clad bathroom I was oddly obsessed with, and a firm but comfy double bed – a classic Portuguese hotel setup. I find it rare to get a queen-size bed here. We’re a bit fussy about pillows, but reception sorted us out with extras, no problema. I loved the vintage touch of a real candlestick and a branded matchbox to light the candle.

The staff were super kind, very helpful, and on hand 24/7 should you need anything.

What can you do around the property? A world in itself

We stayed for three days, two nights and used the middle day to simply enjoy the estate. After a big, slow breakfast in the old monks’ refectory (buffet-style, with scrambled eggs, yoghurts, cakes, croissants, cereal, and more), we set off on one of the hotel’s two marked walking trails.

The easier loop – around 6km – takes approximately 90 minutes, passing through forest, woodlands, and fields. We noticed we were close to the nearest village around lunchtime, so we detoured slightly for a spontaneous meal at Restaurante Serra d’Ossa. The service was a little brisk, but the food made up for it – don’t skip the grilled black pork, if it’s on the menu, and finish with a slice of sericaia (a cinnamon-loaded sponge cake and my favourite Portuguese dessert).

That afternoon, a sudden spring high made for a perfect tanning day. We could have borrowed bicycles, or used one of the four padel courts or the tennis court. Instead, we camped ourselves on sunloungers alongside the adults-only pool with a panoramic view and ordered G&Ts made with a local Alentejo gin. For the kids, a second pool is on offer.

What was great about our spring stay is that the property is so large you’ll often feel like you own the place (but thankfully it’s not creepy quiet). Around sunset, we ordered another G&T to enjoy alone on a terrace beneath an orange tree, heavy with fruit, before retreating to a common lounge where the fireplace was roaring and others had gathered.

We had dinner at Ermita, the hotel’s restaurant – a dream of antique tiles and candlelight – before heading to the games room for a few games of pool.

The food: the restaurant and breakfast buffet

Breakfast is served in the old monks’ refectory – a grand, tile-lined room with plenty of light and some slightly mysterious symbols on the ceiling. The breakfast buffet is exactly what you’d expect (in a good way): a hot station with scrambled eggs, bacon and mushrooms, alongside croissants, homemade cakes, cereals, yoghurts, fruit, and spreads – including honey produced on the property.

The hotel restaurant, Ermita, is set inside the former Capela do Bispo, which is lined with tiles and has frescoed ceilings. By candlelight, it was a genuinely beautiful place for a relaxed dinner, and the young server was formal but delightful.

Foodwise, I’m a former food critic, and I usually avoid hotel dining, so I had my expectations in check. The two soups we tried were forgettable, and the wild boar a little dry. But the black pork was fantastic – grilled over charcoal with the layers of fat rendered beautifully. And the sericaia – my soft spot dessert – was everything it should be: a spongey just-baked cake topped with a thick layer of cinnamon and served with an Elvas’ plum and syrup.

Things to do nearby

Close to Hotel Convento de São Paulo

Within five minutes of the hotel (if you can tear yourself away), a handful of small detours are worth making.

For hikers: Walk the Passadiços da Aldeia da Serra – a boardwalk trail and staircase that should be easy to navigate. You might be able to detour via the boardwalk on the shorter hotel trail.
Full-day cork safari & wine tasting: Explore the Herdade de Maroteira estate in a classic open-top Land Rover to learn about Portugal’s cork production and ecosystem, followed by a wine tasting at the estate (with generous cheese and charcuterie). The tour ends with lunch at a traditional Alentejano restaurant.
For history: Make a detour to the Anta da Herdade da Candeeira, a megalithic dolmen dating from 4,000 to 3,000 BC. You might be able to visit the neighbouring Herdade da Candeeira, which produces beautiful wines too.

Estremoz – the marble town

A marble town with a castle at its crown, Estremoz is an Alentejo gem that offers more than meets the eye. The best time to visit is a Saturday morning when a huge market selling antiques, pottery, and fresh local produce takes over the main square. From there, you have two choices: wander up through the old town’s tight cobbled streets to reach the pousada hotel, housed in a former palace. (Ask to climb the marble tower to take in panoramic views of the Alentejo.) Or, discover one of the largest private tile collections in Portugal at the Berardo Museum Estremoz. Set in a palace, this azulejo museum is a must-see for tile lovers.

Where to eat: Venda Azul, Mercearia Gadanha, Larau

Redondo – famous for pottery

Smaller and sleepier, Redondo has more of a laid-back country town vibe. It’s best known for its ceramics – terracotta pieces thrown on the wheel and hand-painted in a beautiful, rustic style. With about half a dozen pottery workshops and studios to visit, you’ll be able to see the makers in action and collect a souvenir with heart. It’s also worth popping into the local pottery museum.

Where to eat: Celeiro do Pinto

Need to know about Hotel Convento de São Paulo

Book your stay at Hotel Convento de São Paulo

Getting there: You’ll need a car – this isn’t a place you stumble upon by accident. It’s roughly 2 hours from Lisbon, and the drive gets prettier the further east you go.

Rooms: There are 40 rooms in the main building and a few in the annexe (where we stayed). If you can, book one inside the convent proper – it’s worth it for the full atmospheric experience.

When to go: I think spring and autumn would be the best times – warm days, cool nights, and fewer people. If it’s warm enough, relax by the pool; if it’s cool enough, cosy up by one of the fireplaces. We stayed a Thursday and a Friday night, and it was noticeably quieter on the Thursday – so go mid-week for quiet stays. In winter, I imagine you’ll have the place to yourself.

Bring: Walking shoes for the trails, layers for cooler evenings, and something to read by the pool or fireplace. The rooms have spa robes and little toiletries.

Book your stay at Hotel Convento de São Paulo

That’s my experience at the beautiful Hotel Convento de São Paulo in Portugal’s Alentejo region. Let me know if you plan to stay in the comments – I’d love to hear what you think of it too…

Keep reading…

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Explore Redondo, Portugal’s best-kept pottery secret

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Mon, 12 May 2025 13:34:46 +0000

For more than 500 years the people of Redondo have dug their hands into the terra, digging up clay to make earthenware pottery with the heart and soul of the Alentejo.

Both wine and pottery production flourished in Redondo in the 19th century, and it continues to be the Alentejo town’s most important artisan craft. But while there were once 40 studios in Redondo, now you’ll find just six.

Read on to discover Redondo’s pottery heritage, local artisans, things to do in Redondo, and a favourite restaurant and hotel.

Museu do Barro (Pottery Museum)

Learn more about the town’s ceramic evolution at the Museu do Barro, a small pottery museum that details production from prehistoric times to today. The free museum is well worth a look, and you’ll find it tucked behind a church, the Igreja e Convento de Santo António.

Olaria Xico Tarefa

Master Xico Tarefa was the first in his family to learn pottery, picking up the trade as an apprentice for master potter Ezequiel Campainhas at age 13. I hear it usually takes around eight years to reach master status but Xico perfected his technique by 17 and now in his 70s he’s one of Redondo’s greats.

In 2000 he opened his modest studio, where he shapes the clay and paints each piece with his particular style and designs featuring traditional themes of nature and rural life. He’s a friendly guy who loves a chat. One question from us revealed his life story along with that of Redondo (in Portuguese) so don’t be afraid to say hi. There’s a great interview with him here (in Portuguese).

Address: R. João Anastácio da Rosa 4, 7170-062 Redondo

Olaria Poço Velho

Olaria Poço Velho is an incredible time warp. We walked up to the dark warehouse where three tiny dogs came running at us. Senhor Baeta should have been closed for lunch but kindly let us into view the giant warehouse where everything is done as it was in the 20th century.

He learnt the art from his father, starting at age 12, and today it’s just him. Unlike most potters I’ve encountered in Portugal, this artisan still collects clay from local pits himself and processes it the traditional way – removing debris to create clean clay, which he then kneads, moulds, dries and fires in the only wood-fired oven still operating in the village.

Address: Sítio do Poço Velho, 7170-015 Redondo

Olaria Pirraça

Back in 1930 master potter Ezequiel Campainhas started this family-run workshop in Redondo. Today his son Manuel Pirraça continues the legacy, learning from his father after he left school at 11. We only saw the shop of Olaria Pirraça in a quick pitstop on the way to lunch but I instantly recognised the maximalistic, rich floral and rural designs adorning the terracotta plates, jugs and homewares. We left with a little espresso cup and saucer.

Address: R. Conde Redondo 85, 7170-052 Redondo

Other pottery workshops to visit in Redondo

We didn’t have time to go everywhere, but there are three more ceramic studios that you can visit in Redondo.

Olaria Barru – Really beautiful, contemporary pottery crafted by a local master potter with modern colours and designs. You can also see the pieces at a small creative space in Sintra that Barru shares with my favourite tile-painting workshop.
Olaria Jeremias – Traditional workshop with two masters and a painter. Besides homewares, this pottery makes small-order bricks and tiles too.
Martelo Júnior Artesanato – Look for the store in the heart of the village.

Bonus: Artisans who make Alentejo chairs

The other artisanal craft still alive in Redondo is Alentejo chairs and furniture. This popular craft popped up in the 19th century, and while there used to be 10 or more people making chairs, now there are just a couple who specialise in Alentejo furniture.

This style of furniture is often quite simple in build. The chairs have woven seats while the rest of the piece is painted in oils with floral motifs such as roses, lilies and other flowers.

José M. Rosado Vicente – Near to Olaria Xico Tarefa there’s a man making chairs with woven reed seats (R. Dr. José Luís Tavares, 21). The door will likely be open so you can see the process in action.
Artesanato Zezinha – Huge range of traditional hand-painted furniture, from chairs and tables to tea trays and small boxes.
Artesanato Joaquim Boavida – His workshop is in the industrial zone, but you might be more likely to catch him at fairs.

Where to eat in Redondo: Celeiro do Pinto

Alentejo food is maybe my favourite regional cuisine in Portugal. Perhaps it’s thanks to the variety of dishes, or the occasional inclusion of vegetables – but probably it comes down to two things: black pork and sericaia. I’m not a big pork eater, but porco preto is something special. I describe it as like wagyu pork, marbled with layers of fat that render beautifully on a charcoal grill. It’s served at Redondo’s Celeiro do Pinto with rice and hand-cut chips.

This restaurant is a gem with lovely service and one of the best sericaias I’ve ever had. It’s my all-time favourite Portuguese cake, a sort of light sponge cake cooked in a wide terracotta pan, dusted with a thick layer of cinnamon and served with a little green plum and its preserving sugar syrup.

Other things to do in Redondo

Redondo has a beautiful and petite castle, with a single street, that’s worth exploring. Within you’ll find the town’s Enoteca, a cultural space of sorts dedicated to the education of local wines (and tasting).

Next time I’m in this area of the Alentejo I’ll organise an experience with Corktrekking, a company that offers off-road Jeep safaris and guided hikes and wine tastings in a special fifth-generation montado – a cork oak forest. Portugal is the world’s largest producer of cork, and this seems like one of the top-rated and best ways to learn more about the trees and their uses.

Where to stay in Redondo

Hotel Convento de São Paulo

I stayed at this beautifully preserved 12th-century convent that’s now a one-of-a-kind hotel – and it’s easily one of the most memorable places I’ve slept in Portugal. This independently run property holds the largest private azulejo collection in the country, with over 54,000 tiles lining its staircases and cloisters, many dating back to the 1700s.

Better yet, the 4-star hotel is set within 750 hectares of wild Alentejo landscape. It has two pools (including an adults-only option), hiking trails, and G&Ts served straight to your sunbed. You’ll eat breakfast in the old monk’s dining hall, and can spend the rest of the day playing padel or tennis, cycling the grounds, or relaxing over dinner at the on-site restaurant. It’s just 10 minutes from Redondo.

Check availability for Hotel Convento de São Paulo

Other places to stay in Redondo town

TurisAlentejo – modern one-bedroom apartments with traditional Alentejo furniture
Rota VMF – contemporary rooms or a two-bed townhouse.

That’s my guide to Redondo with a focus on the Alentejo town’s ceramic workshops. Any questions? Leave me a comment….

Keep reading…

The post Explore Redondo, Portugal’s best-kept pottery secret appeared first on Olá Daniela.

Bottomless wine and secret cellars: Redondo’s tasca and talha trail

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Thu, 08 May 2025 13:19:36 +0000

Hidden tascas, endless vinho, and the soulful chorus of Cante Alentejano – was it just another Saturday afternoon in the Alentejo?

When I want to really feel the heart and soul of Portugal, I like to dash out to the Alentejo region. Here in the villages, dotted between olive groves and forests of cork oaks, you won’t find ramen bars replacing tascas, or cafés serving iced matcha specials. Instead these raw and real rural communities come together like they always have, bonding over shared heritage and an afternoon of limitless vinho.

Recently we spent the day in Redondo, a small Alentejo town with an artisanal pottery scene, historic castle, and strong wine roots. I’d found an event that gave us access to historic tascas and private adegas, usually closed to the public, with the promise of wine, snacks, and songs at each stop. It didn’t take much to convince a couple of good friends to join.

An afternoon tavern rally, with a side of Cante Alentejano

On this particular April afternoon we were among the 100 people crawling Redondo as part of an event called A Taberna – Tascas, Castas e Cantigas. At just €20, the six-stop tasca rally with bottomless wine, plenty of petiscos (tapas) and traditional cante Alentejano was an easy sell.

I’m slightly obsessed with tascas, tabernas and historic stores, so the chance to visit usually closed private cellars and a centenary grocer sold it for me.

We gathered at the newly opened tourism office to collect our Redondo-branded wine glass and pouch. From there we set off for the first of six stops….

Redondo rally – first two stops

Stops one and two were a couple of regular Redondo tascas that are open to the public. The first, Taberna O Engaço is super cute inside with a vintage tiled counter and traditional details. I definitely want to return here for lunch one day.

The winemaker behind Manelicos, an organic winery whose family has been producing vinho since the 18th century. The syrah was one of my favourites of the day.

The second, O Vicente, was a regular snack bar, but they had the best spread of snacks with top-quality presunto de porco preto (prosciutto) draped over melon, toucinho (lard) with garlic on bread, pastéies de bacalhau (salted cod croquettes), olives and more.

Hearing cante Alentejano

Cante Alentejano is a deep, powerful and traditional Alentejo style of group singing that echoes the rhythms of rural life. It’s always performed without instruments – just one voice or the chorus singing together in slow, haunting harmonies.

Among the rally were about a dozen local men, including the mayor, dressed in traditional Alentejo capotes (cloaks), boots and clothing. Our cante Alentejano chorus would gather and burst into song – singing of the land, love and hardships.

Recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage, this was a raw, real and moving way to mark the end of each stop.

Stop three, a private adega, filled with talhas and ceramics

The third stop sent my jaw to the floor. We entered the inconspicuous door of a private home to find a family’s cellar filled with 14 talhas and dozens of antique terracotta Redondo plates. Down the centre was a long table covered in a red checked tablecloth where a spread of local cheese, charcuterie and salgados lay in wait.

Many wineries Portuguese wineries I’ve visited – which make a point of reviving this style of winemaking – have fewer talhas than this private cellar. These ginormous terracotta vessels have been used to age wine since Roman times in the Alentejo.

I made a short video (below!) about this day, with the main song from when we were in this cellar. Here they were pouring wines from Calhameiro, and I loved the red that blended aragonez, trincadeira and touriga nacional.

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How did I, an estrangeira, find this exclusive tasca rally with bottomless wine and cante Alentejano deep in the interior? I’m on a constant hunt for cool events in Portugal, and I share loads of them in my Portugal event guides.

Plus, Redondo is part of the Serra d’Ossa wine region, which is celebrating being “cidade do vinho” (wine city) for 2025 with loads of events – look at the Instagram for what’s next.

Stop four, a closed century-old grocery store

Mercearia Fim do Mundo (End of the World Grocer) is a historic store that remains preserved behind closed doors. They were swung open for us this day to reveal old wooden shelves, a marble-topped bar and wooden barrels.

A couple of tables were set up with a spread of roasted peppers, charcuterie, croquettes and more. I really liked the wines being poured by Herdade da Candeeira here too.

By this point we’d been spotted as foreigners, which somehow made me a minor celebrity as I was introduced to the mayor, and then the deputy mayor – and then dragged off to give a (terrible) radio interview in Portuguese. (Still no word if what I said was lucid enough to go on air.)

Another private cellar, filled with talhas and homemade booze

Our Rota da Tabernas took us to the private Adega Cova Funda for the fifth stop. This narrow space, lined with huge talhas on each side was more interesting than any regional museum.

Topping every talha, hanging from the cellar, and tucked around the edges were collections of historic farming equipment, baskets, ceramics, textiles and blankets. Plus a never-ending collection of homemade bagaço – a wine-based spirit held in reused jars and bottles and flavoured with whatever the friendly owner could get his hands on.

By this point, the crowd was getting pretty jolly. A couple of accordions had come out, and the music transitioned from cante Alentejano to Portuguese classics that got the people going. Soon enough everyone of all ages was singing the lyrics and swaying with the group, making it feel like a big family celebration or reunion.

Final stop, the enoteca inside the castle

Our final stop was the town’s enoteca, which is Redondo’s cultural space dedicated to wine. In this large hall within the castle walls there was enough space for us to all sit down for a light meal. Tables were spread with even more charcuterie, croquettes, scrambled eggs and bread. Plus we each had a bowl of sopa de cozido, a stew made with smoked meats, potato and cabbage.

At one end was a bar where the wines kept flowing. And once the food was done the music flowed again with extras joining the cante Alentejano group and more songs that bring people together.

It seems like you can visit the enoteca space quite easily to taste dozens of local wines from around Redondo and the Serra d’Ossa paired with cheeses and smoked sausages from the region.

Other things to do in Redondo

Before the tasca rally we explored Redondo’s pottery production, which dates back hundreds and hundreds of years and continues to this day. Redondo once had 40 studios, and now you’ll find six.

You can learn more about the town’s ceramic evolution at the Museu do Barro. This small pottery museum details production from prehistoric times to today (it’s free and worth a look). After, visit the still-working potters yourself.

There are dozens of wineries around Redondo, you just need to call or email ahead to book a tasting. Nearby you can go hiking in the Serra d’Ossa too.

Next time I want to organise a cork safari experience with Corktrekking, a company that offers off-road Jeep tours, guided hikes and wine tastings at a fifth-generation montado – a cork oak forest.

➼ Wish someone could shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls to help cut through the noise and plan your perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Where to stay in Redondo

Hotel Convento de São Paulo

I recently stayed at this tile-filled historic hotel set in a 12th-century convent, and I cannot recommend it highly enough. The independent Hotel Convento de São Paulo has the largest private collection of tiles in Portugal. Some 54,000 azulejos cover the corridors and staircases, dating back to the first half of the 18th century.

It’s rated 4-star, set within 750 hectares of natural bushland, and has two pools (including one adult-only pool). Basically, enjoy a breakfast buffet in the monk’s refectory, follow a hiking trail across the property, then sit by the pool all afternoon while someone delivers G&Ts to your lounge. There are also four padel courts, a tennis court, bicycles and a restaurant.

It’s a stunning countryside escape in the Alentejo, and just a 10-minute drive from Redondo.

Check availability for Hotel Convento de São Paulo

Other places to stay in town

TurisAlentejo – modern one-bedroom apartments with traditional Alentejo furniture
Rota VMF – contemporary rooms or a two-bed townhouse.

How to get to Redondo

Getting to Redondo is relatively simple if you’re coming from Lisbon or Évora. If you’re travelling by bus, Rede Expressos runs regular services from Lisbon’s Oriente Station. The bus stops in Évora with the journey taking about 2 hours and 10 minutes.

If you prefer to drive, it will take about 1 hour and 45 minutes with tolls.

The Serra d’Ossa wine region, where Redondo lies, has other wine towns. Look up events in Borba, Estremoz, Vila Viçosa and Alandroal!

Keep reading…

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Portugal & Spain Road Trip: Where to stop between Lisbon and Seville

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Mon, 03 Mar 2025 08:33:00 +0000

Look at a map of Portugal and you’ll see that beautiful Seville is just over the border…. So if you’re visiting Lisbon or the Algarve, why not plan a road trip and drive to the Spanish city too?

While on paper they seem close, the drive between Lisbon and Seville takes 4-5 hours. But if you zip between the two major cities, you’ll miss out on rural Portugal and Andalucia’s charming rural villages, ancient Moorish castles, dramatic landscapes, Roman ruins, delicious regional cuisine… and the famous jamón stretch that I can’t stop thinking about.

The stops between Lisbon and Seville reveal a different side of the Iberian Peninsula and will connect you deeper with the landscapes, culture and people. Here are ideas on where to stop on a road trip between Lisbon in Portugal and Seville in Spain. These are some lesser-known gems worth a short detour!

Lisbon to Seville: Driving vs public transport

You’ve got two main options: renting a car (or a private driver) or taking public transport. Before I dive deep into all the cool stops you can make on a self-drive road trip between Lisbon and Seville, let’s look at how to travel between the two.

There is no train line connecting Lisbon and Seville, so your public transport option is taking a bus. Coach buses run daily between Lisbon and Seville, taking about six hours. They’re comfortable and affordable, but they don’t allow for spontaneous stops. If you prefer rail travel over the bus, you could take a train from Lisbon to Faro, then switch to a bus or rental car for the rest of the trip. There are also one-hour commercial flights between the two big cities.

Rental cars for two countries

Renting a car gives you the freedom to take detours, visit smaller cities like Évora or Tavira, and turn the journey into part of the adventure. But you have to remember that you’re visiting not one but two countries, two languages, two cultures — and two sets of insurance.

If you’re renting a car in Portugal and want to drive into Spain you’ll need to let the car rental company know. Iost will allow you to take it over the border (best to check and confirm) and usually you’ll only have to pay a fee to cover cross-border breakdown insurance.

Need a rental car? Find the best prices using RentalCars.com or Discover Cars – both sites search and compare car rental companies including international and local rentals to find the best rates.

Private driver: Lisbon to Seville or Seville to Lisbon

Your third option is to hire a private driver. It might seem expensive, but once you add up the fees of car rental, extra insurance, one-way drop-off (if available!), and tolls, it can be a fairly reasonable, stress-free solution. For a private journey with stops between Lisbon and Seville, this all-day transfer can include up to two stops in Tavira, a beautiful historic town in the Algarve, and Huelva, over the border in Spain.

Otherwise, I’ve found this well-priced non-stop transfer from Lisbon to Seville (or Seville to Lisbon).

The best two routes between Lisbon and Seville

There are two fast routes: via the Algarve coast, or inland through the heart of the Alentejo.

The route via the Algarve is slightly faster, taking just shy of 4.5 hours if you drive directly. The second route, heading east from Lisbon through the Alentejo, also takes just over 4.5 hours. So what’s the real difference?

Portugal will make you pay for highways, while Spain has no paid toll roads in that area. From Lisbon to the Algarve border with Spain (Algarve route) tolls add up to €23.30 (2025 prices). The Lisbon to Elvas (Central Alentejo route) is only €18.65.

Besides these two main routes, I’ve included a brief overview of a couple of more off-beat Lisbon to Seville drives at the very bottom.

➼ Want someone to shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls and can plan your perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Algarve route: where to stop between Lisbon and Seville

If you plan to road trip from Lisbon to Seville the route via the Algarve is the fastest, taking just under 4.5 hours if you don’t stop. I have a great guide on where to stop between Lisbon and the Algarve, so to avoid repeating myself – I suggest you give that one a read if you’re looking for stops on the 2.5-hour journey between Lisbon and the southern Algarve coast.

In essence, if you have time take the coastal route to the Algarve. You could stop in Comporta, Porto Covo, Vila Nova de Milfontes, Aljezur and the like. If you prefer to go more direct, stop by the inland Alentejo town of Alcácer do Sal.

Here are your best options between the Algarve and Seville.

Loulé, Portugal: Algarve artisan town

2.5-hour drive from Lisbon // 2-hour, 10-minute drive to Seville

Loulé is a buzzing inland Algarve town where life revolves around the huge daily market. Built in 1908 and inspired by Moorish architecture, it’s a great place to pop by in the morning if you make an early start on your drive from Lisbon to Seville. This is a large Algarve town with a strong creative scene. You can meet artisans through the Loulé Criativo project, or simply grab a coffee (Bean17 roasters is great!) and wander the historic centre and 12th-century Loulé Castle.

If you want to turn your pitstop into a half-way overnight stay, you could book a colourful room in downtown Arts By Loulé, or stay at Viceroy at Ombria Algarve, an all-new luxury “village” hotel in the hills above Loulé with an 18-hole golf course, spa, and dining.

Estoi, Portugal: Palace hotel and Roman ruins

2.75-hour drive from Lisbon // 2-hour drive to Seville

The Algarve village of Estoi is a very short detour from the highway. It’s famous for the Palácio de Estoi, a stunning 19th-century rococo palace with pastel-pink walls, intricate tilework, and beautifully landscaped gardens. Originally a private estate, the palace is now a luxury hotel, so you can stay the night (or just drop by to explore the grounds).

Estoi’s other claim to fame is its Roman heritage. Just outside the village, find the Milreu Roman Ruins, one of the Algarve’s most important archaeological sites. This former villa complex dates back to the 1st century and has well-preserved mosaics, ancient columns, and the remains of thermal baths.

Read next… Tile of the day: Palacio de Estoi

Tavira, Portugal: Algarve’s most beautiful town

3-hour drive from Lisbon // 1-hour, 50-minute drive to Seville

Historic Tavira, set on the banks of the Gilão River, is often called the Algarve’s most beautiful town. You’ll find a charming town centre with cobblestone streets, whitewashed churches and restaurants with terraces spilling out into squares.

If you’re just passing through, use Tavira as your lunch stop. The daily Mercado Municipal de Tavira is a worthy starting point, but note that the stallholders wrap up by 1pm. Find a bite to eat in the heart of the city, then stroll along the river and explore the town’s Moorish-influenced architecture.

If you have time to stay the night, Tavira comes to life in the evening and is home to some fantastic restaurants. WIth more time you can visit the medieval castle for panoramic views, hop on a ferry to the unspoiled beaches of Tavira Island, or wander through the old town’s tiled churches and hidden courtyards. It’s a much quieter, more authentic side of the Algarve.

Read next… Best beaches in Tavira, Algarve

Alternatives to Tavira: Faro or Olhão

If you’ve been to Tavira before, or you want more options, the coastal town of Olhão is my favourite, and I feel the capital Faro is criminally underrated. I really love the eastern Algarve region that this road trip to Seville passes through.

Read more… 15 best things to do in Olhão

Access to the Algarve beaches

It’s important to note the landscape in this area of the eastern Algarve. The Ria Formosa wetlands block these towns (Tavira, Faro, Olhão etc) from the open ocean, so access to the beach is a little more difficult. There are small ferries that take you out to the sand bank islands for loose change but if you’re trying to keep good time you might like to visit a beach you can walk to. In that case, try Praia da Fuseta Ria (parking nearby) or Praia do Barril (15-minute walk, or a short mini train ride).

Closer to Spain, you can access the beach directly at Manta Rota and Monte Gordo, though these towns lack historic charm.

Castro Marim, Portugal: Ancient history and salt pans

3-hour, 10-minute drive from Lisbon // 1.5-hour drive to Seville

Castro Marim, set high on a hill, looks out over salt fields, the Guadiana River and Spain – it’s a strategic village with a long history. The best place to soak in these views is from the 14th-century castle walls that give you a bird’s eye view over the town as well. Then you can visit the salt spa and float in the saline waters! Castro Marim is the perfect quick stop as it is really just a village.

As an alternative, I suggest Vila Nova de Santo Antonio sitting on the river border with Spain. The historic town centre is more interesting than the other new resort towns that have cropped up on nearby sands but it’s not the most vibrant place. If you’re craving beach time, there are beautiful stretches of easy-to-access white sandy beaches in this part of the Algarve.

Ayamonte, Spain: Off-the-radar Spanish border town

3.25-hour drive from Lisbon // 1.5-hour drive to Seville

Ayamonte is the first Spanish town you’ll hit after crossing the Guadiana River from Portugal. This former fishing village is now a relaxed large town with great seafood. I didn’t expect much on my first visit, but it’s a world apart and you’ll feel a distinctive shift in culture, architecture and style as you enter Spain.

If you have the time, drop in for a coffee and stroll the historic streets of an off-the-radar Spanish town, or head to the nearby beaches. Situated on the Costa de la Luz, just a few kilometres away from Ayamonte is Isla Canela, a resort area connected by bridge with seven kilometres (4.3 miles) of endless white sand.

Hermitage of El Rocío, Spain: Spanish Wild West pilgrimage site

4.25-hour drive from Lisbon // 70-minute drive to Seville

This southern Spanish destination is high on my bucket list. I hear the small town of El Rocío, set within Doñana National Park, is a bit like a Spanish Wild West, with wide sandy streets and low western-style houses with porches at the front, and stables at the back.

At the centre of the town, which is set at the edge of the Guadalquivir marshes, is the Hermitage of El Rocío. This religious sanctuary dates back to the 13th century, and each year the town springs to life as pilgrims arrive on horseback with decorated wagons, wearing colorful flamenco dress or traditional attire. The date of this event – the Romería de El Rocío – changes each year as it falls 50 days after Easter.

If you’re more into nature than religion or culture, Doñana National Park is Europe’s most extensive wetlands area and a UNESCO World Heritage site with migratory birds, pine forests and sandy dunes. Visit Playa de Matalascañas for lunch or a drink by the ocean.

Niebla, Spain: Almohad walls and ancient castle

4-hour drive from Lisbon // 50-minute drive to Seville

I wouldn’t be surprised if you’ve never heard of Niebla, but this small town – perched on a hill above the Tinto River – is home to one of Spain’s most important artistic heritage sites. The old town is encircled by more than two kilometres of Almohad wall, which once made the town one of the most important walled settlements in Muslim Al-Ándalus.

There are 40 defensive towers and five fortified gates to explore. Plus, within the walls you’ll find the ancient Castillo de Niebla (sometimes also called the Alcázar de los Guzmanes), the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Granada (with its blend of 10th and 11th-century Moorish plus Mudejar and Baroque architecture), and a cultural centre within the old Hospital de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles.

Outside the walls, there’s a Roman bridge that’s still in use today, plus the prehistoric Dolmen de Soto.

And then, well, you continue onto beautiful Seville.

Central Alentejo route: Where to stop between Lisbon and Seville

The Alentejo is the perfect antidote to big-city living. Endless fields of cork trees, olive groves, and vineyards are punctuated by small whitewashed villages and nobody seems to rush. I absolutely love visiting towns and restaurants in the beautiful Alentejo region of Portugal, and there are a number of itinerary routes from Lisbon to Seville that will have you driving through some incredible destinations (I’ll list alternatives at the bottom).

This trip includes the jamón ibérico route that I can’t stop thinking about.

Montemor-o-Novo, Portugal: Castle on the hill

1.25-hour drive from Lisbon // 3.5-hour drive to Seville

Just an hour from Lisbon, Montemor-o-Novo might be a little close to the starting point – but it’s worth a short detour for a coffee break. The main thing to see here is the Montemor-o-Novo Castle, which sits high above the hill. It was here back in 1496 that the final plans for explorer Vasco da Gama’s sea crossing to India were drawn up. Down in the town below you can see many, many churches and drop into a café-bar for your first espresso.

Évora, Portugal: Capital of the Alentejo with a Roman temple

1.5-hour drive from Lisbon // 3.5-hour drive to Seville

If you’re road-tripping from Lisbon to Seville, Évora is a no-brainer stop. This charming Alentejo city is basically an open-air museum. Start atop the highest hill where you’ll find evidence of Roman, Moorish and Catholic occupation. Admire the ancient Roman temple while sipping a café at the open-air kiosk and climb onto the roof of the cathedral, or visit the eerie and fascinating Chapel of Bones.

If you’re in a hurry, grab a coffee in the sun-drenched Praça do Giraldo. If you have time, read my tried-and-tested list of Évora’s best restaurants. I really love Alentejo dishes – and as the regional capital Évora has some 10/10 spots to eat. After, keep ticking off these 20 best things to do in Évora or go shopping for artisanal goods and souvenirs.

Read next… How to spend 48 hours in Évora

Estremoz, Portugal: Marble city with a Saturday flea market

1.45-hour drive from Lisbon // 3-hour drive to Seville

Estremoz is a beautiful Alentejo town famous for its marble – you’ll see it everywhere, from the sidewalks to the huge white tower that dominates the town. Venture up to the castle in search of said tower, which now forms part of the Pousada Castelo Estremoz hotel. Yep, if you add an overnight stop (or two!) to your Lisbon to Seville road trip you could be sleeping in a castle. If you don’t stay, you should still be able to climb up for views over the town.

If you visit on a Saturday, the town square transforms into a lively market where locals sell everything from fresh cheese and pottery to vintage treasures. The rest of the time, Estremoz has a couple of key museums to explore – the Museu Berardo Estremoz has one of the best tile collections in the country, while the small Centro Interpretativo do Boneco de Estremoz celebrate the town’s UNESCO-listed artisan heritage.

Estremoz is definitely worth a stop on your Lisbon-to-Seville journey, and if you stay a while there are plenty of good wineries to explore nearby too!

Elvas, Portugal: The fortress city

2.25-hour drive from Lisbon // 2.5-hour drive to Seville

A key defensive stronghold near the Spanish border, the Alentejo town of Elvas is known for its military history and star-shaped fortresses. The huge old town is completely fortified and flanked by two huge fortresses on either side, making a defensive line against the Spanish empire. The old town centre is charming and real, with locals occupying whitewashed homes along skinny cobbled streets, and historic churches popping out on various corners.

Elvas’ other famous landmark is the towering Amoreira Aqueduct, which stretches for about 8.5 kilometres (5 miles). You’ll likely catch a glimpse on the way into town. You can explore the sights, or just drop in for coffee and a slice of sericaia, an Alentejo dessert that gets topped with a little plum in syrup from this town. Elvas has a way of feeling a bit off the beaten path, and it’s a solid halfway stop on your Lisbon to Seville road trip, or as a stopover between Évora and Seville.

If you’re looking for more Portuguese towns worthy of a detour, try Vila Viçosa, Borba, Redondo, Arraiolos, Alandroal and more. There are also dozens of wineries with cellar door experiences that make a lovely detour.

Badajoz, Spain: A Moorish Alcazaba and fancy plazas

2.5-hour drive from Lisbon // 2.5-hour drive to Seville

Standing atop the fortified walls of Elvas, you can spy Badajoz in the distance – just a 15-minute drive over the Spanish border. This small city has a population of about 150,000 and the main thing to see is the Alcazaba, a massive Moorish fortress with views over the Guadiana River. Inside, you’ll find peaceful gardens, ancient walls, and a glimpse into Spain’s Islamic past.

After exploring, visit Plaza Alta, a colorful square lined with arcades and cafés, and stay awhile to enjoy the tapas scene. For culture, see an impressive art collection at the Museo de Bellas Artes de Badajoz (MUBA).

Mérida, Spain: Special Roman ruins

3-hour drive from Lisbon // 2-hour drive to Seville

History lovers shouldn’t skip a detour to Mérida, which is home to some of the best-preserved Roman ruins in Spain. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed city – sometimes called the Rome of Spain – still uses the Roman Theatre for performances today, so time it right and you can sit down to a show (but not the gladiator kind). There’s also an ancient 15,000-seat amphitheatre, a Roman temple, and Roman bridge to admire. Of course, there’s the National Museum of Roman Art to dive even deeper.

Almendralejo, Spain: Wine and olives

3-hour drive from Lisbon // 1.45-hour drive to Seville

Sitting in the heart of Extremadura’s wine country, Almendralejo might be a must-stop for wine lovers and foodies on the Lisbon-to-Seville drive. Here you’ll encounter some of the best cava (Spanish sparkling), and can stop by a local bodega for a relaxed tasting, or venture into the Wine Science Museum to learn about technique and tradition. Beyond the vineyards, this countryside town has the usual historic plazas and churches, and tapas bars with local plates. Snack, sip, savor!

3.25-hour drive from Lisbon // 1.5-hour drive to Seville

Zafra, Spain: Sleep in the Alcázar of this mini Seville

Zafra seems to have gained the nickname “Little Seville” thanks to its similarities. It’s star attraction is the Alcázar of Zafra, a stunning 15th-century fortress-turned-parador – but here’s the twist – you can actually stay the night in the top-rated Parador de Zafra .

That might tempt you to turn this stop on the route from Lisbon to Seville into an overnight stay. That will give you time to explore the lively Plaza Grande and Plaza Chica, with their arcades, cafés, and local shops, and the chance to taste Iberian ham from the nearby Dehesa pastures.

Jabugo Route, Spain: Jamón heartland

3.5/4-hour drive from Lisbon // 70-minute drive to Seville

The Jabugo Route is an area around the small village of Jabugo, which sits within the Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche and is famous for its acorn-fed Iberian ham – better known as the world’s best, jamón Iberico.

There’s a bit of a trail you can follow, covering about 50 kilometres (30 miles) between Aracena and Aroche, but for a slightly shorter ham-loaded detour I’d suggest the town of Corteconcepción. Within the biosphere of cork trees and roaming black pigs lies Jamones Eíriz, who have been crafting jamón since 1818. You can drop in for a two-hour tour to discover the world of jamón production.

If Corteconcepción is too far out of the way, instead take a small detour to Monesterio. This small town in Extremadura has a Jamón Museum (yes, that’s a thing!). After, you’ll need to stop at a local jamonería for a plate of freshly sliced ham with a glass of wine.

Andddd finally continue to Seville.

Where to stay in Seville

I’ve visited Seville a handful of times and I love how walkable the city centre is. In terms of where to stay, I like the central El Arenal neighbourhood, right on the Guadalquivir River. It’s central and within easy walking distance of any sights, yet it’s a touch quieter. If it’s your second time, I’d consider the Triana neighbourhood. It’s quieter, more local and filled with amazing ceramic shops and authentic tapas bars while still being a maximum 15-minute walk to any sights.

I can’t recommend driving into the centre of Seville (or any old European city, really), so you’ll need somewhere to park. Below I’ll suggest a handful of hotels with parking available – prices seems to between around €20-25 per day. Alternatively, I use the website Parkopedia to find street parking or parking garages in new cities. If you have a larger car, take care with the skinny streets.

Some hotels with parking you could look at include:

rooftop pool: EME Catedral Mercer Hotel (private valet)
historic: Hotel Casa Del Poeta (private valet parking)
historic: Vincci La Rabida (private valet parking at hotel)
modern rooftop pool: Zenit Sevilla (private parking onsite in Triana)
: Petit Palace Puerta de Triana (discounted parking nearby)

Extra Alentejo Routes between Lisbon and Seville

The Alentejo is dotted with gorgeous towns, each with their own unique character, artisan crafts, and local dishes. If you have the time you could choose one of these slower paths. I’ll detail them briefly below.

Bonus route 1: Alentejo via Beja & Jamón Route

Total road trip time: minimum 5 hours

Cruise south from Lisbon down the A2 until you pass Grândola, where you’ll turn inland and wave goodbye to the highway. From here you’ll pass through a handful of off-beat towns and villages on a less-frequented road trip from Lisbon to Seville. Here’s the Google Maps link with every stop added. Details below.

Ferreira do Alentejo: Drop into the Adega do Lelito, a traditional tavern turned museum that celebrates heritage and cante, the Alentejo singing tradition.
Beja: Dates back to being a Roman city. Visit the Roman villa of Pisões and the largest medieval castle in Portugal.
Serpa: Town famous for creamy sheep’s cheese, with a castle and cute historic centre.
Jabugo Route: After Serpa, you’ll cross the border into Spain and soon be on the 50-kilometre- (30-mile) jamón Iberico route, starting in Aracena. The route passes an area that’s both a national park and biosphere reserve.
Mezquita de Almonaster La Real: A rural castle-mosque built between the 9th and 10th centuries.
Acarena: Visit the ham museum, castle, and whitewashed Spanish town.
Jamones Eíriz: Join a two-hour tour to discover the world of jamón production.

Then, continue the drive to Seville.

Bonus route 2: Alentejo via Mértola & Alcoutim

Total road trip time: minimum 5.5 hours

Drive two hours south of Lisbon, then turn off around Ourique, in the lower Alentejo. From here, turn into towards Mértola

Here’s the Google Maps link so you can see the stops and timings. Details below.

Ourique: Typical whitewashed Alentejo town surrounded by vast plains, cork forests, and vineyards. Wander the 12th-century castle, then feast on black pork for lunch.
Mértola: This border town with a long ancient history overlooks the Guadiana River and was once a key Mediterranean river port.
Vía Verde del Odiel: If you like to hike or cycle, the 17km Odiel Green Way starts in Zalamea la Real and follows an old mining railway.
Dólmenes de El Pozuelo: Also near Zalamea la Real is a trail that connects 16 megalithic dolmens and burial chambers near the village of El Pozuelo.
Villasudores – Miniatures Museum: Discover small-scale reproductions of the most important monuments of Andalusia.
Niebla: Town encircled by more than two kilometres of Almohad wall, which once made the town one of the most important walled settlements in Muslim Al-Ándalus. There’s 40 defensive towers and five fortified gates to explore.

And then continue your road trip from Lisbon to Seville.

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How to spend 48 hours in Évora

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Sun, 16 Feb 2025 12:51:01 +0000

Évora is an incredible small city where you can soak up history, dive into local gastronomy, or just slow down and enjoy the Alentejo’s famously relaxed pace. The UNESCO-listed centre is a time capsule of Roman, Moorish, and medieval influences, yet Évora has an energetic and youthful vibe.

I live in Lisbon and have visited Évora half a dozen times, usually staying overnight. If I had two days – or even just 36 hours – in the Alentejo capital, here’s how I’d connect with this whitewashed city and its unique culture. Use my 48-hour Évora itinerary to help you make the most of your visit.

Where is Évora, Portugal?

Évora is located in the Alentejo region, around a 90-minute drive or train ride east of Lisbon. While it’s not directly on the way to major tourist hubs, it makes for a rewarding detour – either as a stopover en route to the Algarve, on the road to Seville in Spain, or as part of a journey north towards Lisbon or Porto.

Can you take a day trip from Lisbon to Évora?

Yes, it’s possible to visit Évora on a day trip. Many trains and coaches run frequently between the two cities, and the drive is easy if you have a rental car.

I’ve written this two-day Évora itinerary as I feel the city and area is best enjoyed at a slower space. Spending at least one night allows you to experience its golden sunsets, dine at its excellent restaurants, and even take a day trip to nearby villages like Monsaraz or Estremoz. But if you’re short on time, a city highlights guided tour or full-day trip will help you see the top sights efficiently within a day.

48 Hours in Évora – Mini Guide

In a rush? Here’s my mini guide for 48 hours in Évora

Where to stay:

5-star hotel: M’ar de Ar Aqueduto
Historic 4-star: Hotel Albergaria do Calvário
Modern 4-star: Evora Olive Hotel

What to do and see in 48 hours:

Day 1:

Try local sweets at a top bakery (filled with gorgeous tiles)
Visit Évora’s top sights with a guide: Bone Chapel, Roman Temple and Cathedral
Explore Évora’s most beautiful garden and its hidden mini history museum
Use the afternoon to shop artisan goods, soak in a Roman-style spa, see the aquaduct, or visit many churches
Go for a sunset drink at Praça do Giraldo, then traditional Alentejo food for dinner

Day 2:

Visit the Cromlech of the Almendres with a guide
Or tour a sixth-generation 1,400-acre family cork farm in a Jeep
Taste the Alentejo’s tannin-heavy red wines over lunch, join a guided tasting
Or make an afternoon of it with a small-group wine tour.
Explore might sights in Évora, or visit nearby villages such as Monsaraz, Arraiolos, Estremoz and Redondo.

Day 1 in Évora

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Morning: Traditional convent sweets stop

If you’re not planning to rent a car, taking the train to Évora is quick and easy. I always book trains directly through cp.pt, but if you’re struggling with the website try Omio. Trains leave Lisbon from Sete Rios, Entrecampos and Oriente stations, arriving into Évora less than 90 minutes later.

If you depart Lisbon early enough, you’ll arrive in time for a mid-morning coffee and a snack. While Lisbon has the pastel de nata, Évora has a handful of traditional sweet treats that you must try. The best place to go is Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala. Besides a counter filled with traditional doces conventuais (convent sweets), the café-bakery also has beautiful interiors with hand-painted blue-and-white azulejos. Try the queijadas de Évora (small cheesecakes), pão de rala (local stuffed cake), or my favourite, sericaia (a fluffy soufflé-like sponge cake).

Visit the legendary Bone Chapel

On this side of town lies Évora’s infamous Chapel of Bones – or Capela dos Ossos. As the name suggests, this rather large chapel is filled floor-to-ceiling with human skulls and bones. In the late 16th century, monks relocated bones from 5,000 people to this specially built chapel next to the St. Francis Church (Igreja de São Francisco). The chapel has always been open to the public as a place where one can reflect on life, death, and the meaninglessness of material things.

If you prefer a day trip, this small-group tour from Lisbon includes a guided visit to the Chapel of Bones.

“Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos”

“We bones that are here, for yours we wait” – reads the sign above the chapel door, asking each visitor to Évora’s Chapel of Bones reflect on their own mortality.

Don’t skip the mini history museum

The Bone Chapel is around the corner from Évora’s most beautiful garden, the Jardim Público de Évora (Public Garden). Here lies the remains of the former royal palace, and within is a fantastic and very worthwhile mini museum (the Centro Interpretativo da Cidade de Évora) that details the history of Évora through the centuries in both English and Portuguese. After, say hello to the park’s many peacocks.

Also nearby is the city market (Mercado Municipal de Évora). While it’s not as impressive as some of Portugal’s great daily produce markets, if you want foodie souvenirs I like the independent and traditional grocery store Zé do Bacalhau.

Lunch: first taste of Alentejo cuisine

Traditional Alentejo food is fantastic, and eating in the regional capital is a joy. I’m a former food critic and my list of tried-and-tested Évora restaurants is packed with great choices. If you plan ahead, you could book a table at Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira for a feast that you’ll roll out from; arrive early to snag a bar seat at Botequim da Mouraria; or go to an old-school local institution like Fialho.

Afternoon: Roman temple & cathedral

With a full belly, make your way up to Évora’s tallest hill, where you’ll see evidence of the three major civilisations that made their mark here. The Corinthian-style Roman temple from the early 1st century AD is a sight to behold. I like to sit in the quiosque (kiosk) in the garden across the road with a coffee or sparkling water and just take it in. From here you can also see a Moorish tower.

Then around the corner, visit Évora’s Sé – the biggest medieval cathedral in Portugal, built between 1186 and 1250. If you have the strength (or sheer determination) it’s worth climbing the stairs to the roof where you’ll take in the best view of Évora.

Tip: If you’re short on time and hungry for knowledge, a guided walking tour is the best way to see Évora. The main sights are within walking distance, and a talented guide can bring the story of each to life. This quick 2.5-hour tour ticks off the three sights I’ve just mentioned, while this three-hour tour goes more in-depth with extra stops.

Choose your own Évora adventure

I like to include lots of choice in my itineraries to give you the freedom to explore your way. I live in Portugal so most of the time my guides are based on 4-5 visits, so rather that say do this, do that – here is a list of suggestions so you know what your options are.

The main unmissable sights in Évora are the Bone Chapel, Cathedral and Roman Temple. After ticking those off, you might like to:

Lose yourself in Évora’s charming streets. Within the city walls is a labyrinth of cobblestone streets and white-washed homes trimmed with Alentejo yellow paint.
Look for houses built into Évora’s aqueduct. The 16th-century Agua de Prata Aqueduct runs for over 18 kilometres (11 miles).
Relax in Praça do Giraldo, Évora’s main square. It’s a great spot for a sunset drink with a side of people watching.
Visit the Évora Museum, set within the halls of a former archbishop’s palace. Think Roman sculptures, Visigothic and medieval artefacts, and Portuguese and Flemish paintings.
Seek art at the Palácio dos Duques de Cadaval (Cadaval Palace). Sometimes this private palace hosts special exhibitions.
Soak in a Roman-style bath. At In Acqua Veritas they’ve recreated the atmosphere of ancient Roman bathing rituals with a touch of luxury.
Visit many, many more churches. In the 15th century, Portugal’s king started living in Évora, bringing a golden age. Check out the Santa Clara Convent, the São Francisco Convent, Igreja da Misericórdia, and Os Lóios Convent from that time.
Shop for artisanal, handmade souvenirs. The Alentejo has a rich artisan heritage, and Évora has some beautiful boutiques and historic shops. I’ve listed some favourites in my Évora shopping guide here.

Check into your Évora hotel

If you haven’t already checked in, now’s the time. When it comes to planning where to stay in Évora, I find anywhere within the old city walls is perfect. If you look on a map you’ll easily be able to make out the round walls that encircle the centre.

Évora is fairly flat, so it’s easy to navigate on foot – that said, the streets are cobblestone and not easy if you have mobility issues.

Within the historic centre, I’ve stayed at the 5-star M’ar de Ar Aqueduto hotel, which, as the name suggests, has aqueduct views. I need to return in summer so I can laze by the pool with that vista.

Alternatively, the historic 4-star Hotel Albergaria do Calvário would be great, or I’ve heard good things about the modern 4-star Évora Olive Hotel.

Alternatively, you could also choose to stay in the countryside around Évora. It’s easy to park at the edges of the city walls when you want to explore. Nearby look up at the historic 5-star Convento do Espinheiro, or luxury guesthouse A Casa do Governador. Or for a more relaxed retreat, the 4-star Octant Évora estate is also on my to-stay list.

Evening: sunset in Praça do Giraldo & dinner

The heart of Évora is Praça do Giraldo, and it’s here in the main square that locals meet and gather around café tables that sprawl across the huge plaza. Join them for a pre-dinner imperial (small beer) or sunset cocktail.

On my last visit the square was rammed with university students in black capes, their friends and families. It was some sort of hazing event to celebrate first year students becoming second year and receiving their capes on November 1. The date also marked the 465-years anniversary of Évora University. After aperitivo in the square, we slipped down a side street to Café Alentejo (an Évora classic) for dinner. When we returned, things were heating up. The students were gathered in faculty groups, forming many circles in the square where they were chanting and singing songs.

In a semi organised fashion, students started entering the circle in pairs – a second-year student with their padrinho or madrinho (“godfather” or “godmother” – an older or past student). The younger student would get wrapped in the flowing black cape like a burrito, then spun around. The nominated padrinho or madrinho would then take a huge gulp of beer from a 1L bottle and spray it down their back as families and friends watched on. Beer baptism! So student.

We’d heard word that at midnight the students would gather on the steps of the cathedral to throw pantufas (slippers) into the air. Apparently it used to be proper shoes, but there were incidents. While the midnight shoe toss event was a bit of a fizz, I can recommend Estrela d’Ouro for a post-dinner drink.

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Day 2 in Évora

Évora is a fantastic small city. As you can see from my suggestions for the afternoon of Day 1, there are plenty of things to do if you have just 48 hours or two days in Évora. But for fast-paced travellers or countryside lovers, on Day 2 I suggest you go beyond the historic city walls. Here’s some ideas for your Évora itinerary.

Morning: Visit the Cromlech of the Almendres

There’s a megalithic stone circle a few kilometres outside Évora that pre-dates Stonehenge by more than 2,000 years. While less monumental in size, the Cromlech of the Almendres is thought to be 7,000 years old – and the best way to understand the rocks is with a local guide who will bring the history to life. You’ll go on a guided hike through the Serra de Valverde to the Almendres megalithic monument, plus visit Castelo do Geraldo and learn about the legendary Gerald the Fearless.

Or tour the cork forests

One of Portugal’s greatest exports is cork – the country accounts for more than 50% of the world’s cork production. Most of that comes from the Alentejo, this vast region that takes up around a third of continental Portugal. The world of cork is fascinating – the bark of cork trees is harvested every nine years during the summer months, and it takes at least three cycles to get cork quality suitable for wine stoppers.

Visiting a montado where cork trees are part of a farm ecosystem with black pigs and more is so interesting. You can visit a sixth-generation 1,400-acre family estate on a special cork walk or in a jeep and learn how the family sustainably manages the cork forest as a farm.

Lunch: Vineyard feast

If you’re a wine lover, I suggest you venture outside the city this afternoon to taste the Alentejo’s tannin-heavy red wines and strong whites. I had a wonderful lunch at Fitapreta winery (pictured above), a stunning estate just 10 kilometres (6 miles) from Évora. Herdade do Esporão is another beautiful estate with a Michelin-starred (plus a Green Star!) restaurant, though you can also enjoy a more casual lunch at the bar.

For something more relaxed, Ervideira is another winery with a great tasting room. Here, you can expect rustic, traditional fare and enjoy a tasting experience (plus there are very cute donkeys to pat!)

If you stay in or close to the city, O Moinho do Cu Torto is a great restaurant with traditional Alentejo dishes.

Afternoon: Alentejo wine tasting

Taste the Alentejo’s warm climate wines at cellar doors within Évora (drop by Enoteca Cartuxa or Ervideira) – or at the source. Organise a tasting at nearby estates, or join a tour (so you don’t have to drive!). For a guided experience that takes you into the countryside, join this small-group wine tasting tour. It also stops in the nearby village of Arraiolos, which is famous for its artisan rug weaving. Or this excellent full-day tour that combines time exploring medieval Monsaraz village with a stop at Corval, the pottery village, and a local winery.

Or explore small Alentejo villages

There are a handful of fantastic Alentejo villages within half-an-hour or so of Évora. On the afternoon of your second day, you could hit the road exploring one of the below:

Monsaraz: the most magical medieval walled village atop a hill. Ideal for sunset. (Pictured)
Corval: village famous for its pottery traditions, with nearly two dozen workshops.
Arraiolos: town famous for hand-stitched rugs.
Estremoz: famous marble city with a white tower and Saturday flea market
Redondo: typical village with pottery traditions
Viana do Alentejo: quiet town with an unusual castle and church
Alcáçovas: quiet village with Portugal’s last cowbell workshop

Evening: Dinner in town (or a small village)

Cap off your 48 hours in Évora with one final Alentejo meal. If you’re heading back to the city for dinner, use my list of favourite Évora restaurants to find somewhere cosy or chic.

Or if you’re outside the city anyway… my favourite spot for dinner might be in Monsaraz village. Lock in a table at Sabores de Monsaraz, Sahida, or Taverna Os Templários for a delicious meal with views over Lake Alqueva. Bonus points if you time it to align with sunset.

Extend the fun: Best day trips from Évora

If you have extra time in the Alentejo, Évora makes a great base for exploring the surrounding countryside, historic towns, and unique cultural sites. You could stay an extra night or two! Here are five of the best day trips from Évora:

Monsaraz, Lake Alqueva & Corval

I’ve mentioned Monsaraz and Corval already as it’s one of my favourite extensions to any Évora itinerary. There’s just something magic about Monsaraz, a stunning medieval village perched high above Lake Alqueva. From here you’ll have views over the surrounding countryside, can explore the castle, take a boat trip on the lake, or go stargazing in the Dark Sky Reserve. While here, don’t miss Corval pottery village.

Read next… 48 hours in Monsaraz

Arraiolos and its famous rugs

This typical whitewashed Alentejo town is known for its centuries-old tradition of hand-stitched rugs. Visit the Arraiolos interpretive centre to see artisans at work, explore the circular hilltop castle, and sample local empanadas (chicken pies). I like O Alprende for lunch, and nearby Fitapreta is perfect for a wine tasting.

Estremoz and the marble tower

Nicknamed the “white city” for its marble-clad streets and buildings, Estremoz is a larger town with plenty of character. Visit the medieval castle, the city’s iconic white tower, and nearby marble quarries. Don’t miss the tiles in the Berardo Museum, or the Boneco Museum. Better yet, time your visit to align with the brilliant Saturday flea market.

Vila Viçosa and Portugal’s royal heritage

A gem hidden in plain site, Vila Viçosa is an elegant town home to the impressive Ducal Palace, which was once a residence of the Portuguese royal family. Explore its grand halls, visit the marble-clad streets, stomp around the castle and enjoy a relaxed lunch in the historic centre. This experience explores the marble mines near Vila Viçosa. Nearby you can drop by the village of Borba to explore Alentejo wine too.

Alentejo wine country

Wine tasting at Herdade do Esporao

The region surrounding Évora is packed with wineries offering wine tastings and vineyard tours. Head to Herdade do Freixo, Ervideira, Herdade do Esporão, Fitapreta, or Cartuxa for a deep dive into Alentejo’s bold reds and rich whites, paired with delicious local cuisine.

Where to stay in Évora: best hotels and guesthouses

You can stay anywhere in the old city centre of Évora and be within walking distance of the top sights and best restaurants, tascas, or sweet shops.

Top suggestions within Évora’s historic centre:

M’ar de Ar Aqueduto – 5-star, aqueduct views!
Hotel Albergaria do Calvário – 4-star, historic
Évora Olive Hotel – 4-star, modern
Templo Boutique Hotel – guesthouse

Top suggestions outside Évora:

Convento do Espinheiro – 5-star historic hotel
A Casa do Governador – luxury guesthouse
Octant Évora – 4-star estate

That’s how I’d spend 48 hours in Évora. If you plan to use my two-day Évora itinerary, leave me a comment! It makes my day

Keep reading…

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The average person’s guide to A-list Comporta: Portugal’s luxe beach town

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Tue, 28 Jan 2025 09:07:00 +0000

Some of Portugal’s most spectacular stretch of coastline is found just over an hour south of Lisbon. The golden sands around the Comporta region are some of the most wild, natural, and pristine in the whole country. Here pine forests bump up against vast sand dunes, gorgeous beaches back onto fields of rice, and local fishermen rub shoulders with Europe’s jetsetting crowd.

I’m still surprised when a visitor mentions Comporta in the same breath as Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve. This small village and sparsely populated coastal region has somehow blown up international media as “Portugal’s secret beach spot”, the “Hamptons of Europe”, and as the “coolest beach town” where the A-list crowd goes for barefoot luxury.

I’ve noticed the other guides covering the best things to do in Comporta are mostly focused on luxury hotels and experiences, and/or are written by journalists from abroad. They use words like exclusive, affluent and trendy to describe the Comporta Coast and its villages.

But I feel one of the best things about Portugal is that it’s a fairly democratic place to explore. I’m based in Lisbon, the Portuguese capital that’s the closest airport to Comporta, and at the end of the day I’m not a luxury traveller. I don’t have the budget for 5-star hotels, daily massages, and room service. That said, I do appreciate the finer things in life. I really love to eat out, and I adore the Alentejo region of Portugal, where Comporta lies.

When I travel I’m looking for good value, great dining, and unique experiences. You don’t need to be super “affluent” to access Comporta and it’s not as “exclusive” as other articles will make you think. So, after a number of visits at different times of the year, I present my average person’s guide to luxurious Comporta.

Where and what is Comporta?

The Comporta Coast is a coastal region that stretches from the southern edge of the Sado Estuary towards the south, all within the huge Alentejo region. This area is a protected nature reserve, so keep your eyes out for giant nesting storks in town and pinkish flamingoes down by the river. Comporta is also the name of one of seven villages within this region. The others are Pego, Carvalhal, Brejos, Torre, Possanco and Carrasqueira.

Comporta lies around 120 km (75 miles) south of Lisbon, and it takes between 75-90 minutes to reach the region from the city. Traditionally the people here lived off the land, growing rice, harvesting salt, and farming. They shaped the land to be what we see today, 12,500 hectares of land known as Herdade da Comporta.

I find 21st-century Comporta to be a place of odd contrasts. On one hand, you have some of the most beautiful and wild beaches found in Portugal. Here stalk nests watch over small villages with blue-trimmed white washed homes. The villages are surrounded by verdant rice fields which stretch until wild dunes lead to the beaches. On the other hand, large swathes of the area has been turned into high-end luxury resorts where Europe’s wealthy crowd flock for barefoot holidays.

Comporta is a laidback coastal retreat that makes it easy to switch off. You can also detour via the town on the drive from Lisbon to Lagos, though I’d recommend staying overnight or making it into a weekend here. I’ll cover how to get there down the bottom, but TL;DR – you need a car or private transfer.

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How expensive is Comporta?

I’ve seen locals carry just-picked cabbages through the whitewashed fishing village of Comporta past international holidaymakers with Chanel handbags (who then sit down for boujee brunch or oysters and champagne). Basically, Comporta can be what you want it to be – but it’s easy to spend money here.

Hamburger math in Portugal is best done with beers. In Lisbon you’ll pay €1.20-2 for an imperial (200ml draft beer). At the more famous or beachfront restaurants here you’ll pay €4-6 for the exact same thing. Honestly, I see why the locals bring a packed lunch for their beach days.

I think if you visit from another more affluent European country you might not find the prices to be too crazy. If you’re coming from anywhere within Portugal, you’ll think it’s a little mad.

When I’m at the beach in Portugal I want to sit looking at the ocean tucking into a grilled fish. Looking at the beach restaurants at every beach in Comporta, the prices are also about double that of the wild beaches and beautiful beach clubs of Costa da Caparica, just south of Lisbon. A few places I saw had fried calamari starter for €20.

Who should visit Comporta?

People seeking a relaxed stay in coastal nature and chance to slow down
People who really love the beach and want to lie out on clean, golden sands
People who love architectural and unusual stays or hotels
People who wouldn’t bat an eyelid at paying €30-60 for lunch

Comporta Portugal Travel Guide

Where to stay: best hotels in Comporta, Portugal

I usually finish my articles with hotel and guesthouse suggestions, but of all the destinations in Portugal I think where you stay will change your experience. There isn’t a whole lot to do around Comporta (which is a good thing for a relaxed vacation!) but where you stay matters.

Comporta is a place where having the money to splash on a nice hotel and exclusive guesthouse will really complete the experience, but there are cheaper options too. Comporta has some stunning hotels and special properties, such as:

The 5-star Quinta Da Comporta, which is a wellness retreat and one of the top resort hotels in the area. The infinity pool overlooks the rice fields.
The modern and chic 4-star Spatia, with three pools and a tennis, padel, and pickleball court among the facilities. I’ve visited this retreat and it’s gorgeous – very spread out, private and with a great local chef behind the signature restaurant.
The stunning 4-star AlmaLusa Comporta is located in Comporta village, giving you easy access to more restaurants without the drive.
The sleek 4-star Independente Comporta, a resort with a cool vibe and everything you could need, set a little south.
The relaxed 5-star Sublime Comporta Country Retreat & SPA, with 23 hotel rooms and 22 cabanas with 2-5 bedrooms each. The villas all have a private pool and fireplace.

If you’re on a tighter budget but still want to relax with the sand between your toes there are plenty of more budget-friendly guesthouses that still give you the space and comfort to switch off (perhaps without the 24/7 concierge and courtesy bus).

Recently I stayed at À Espera, a brand-new guesthouse in the southern end of the Comporta region. It’s a little further south, bordering Melides, which is the perfect quiet escape. You’ll get a fantastic breakfast each morning, then you can laze out beside the beautiful pool or drive to a nearby beach.
Alternatively, you could try the more affordable B. Hostel.

The best beaches in Comporta

At its core, Comporta is about the beach. The natural coastal landscape here is absolutely gorgeous and there are three main beaches to bookmark and visit. I’ll mention some lesser-known quiet beaches below too.

Comporta Beach (Praia da Comporta)

A couple of kilometres from Comporta village lies the expansive stretch of golden sands known as Praia da Comporta. You’ll pass the area’s signature rice fields and cross over preserved wild dunes to reach this stunning beach, which has views over the mountains of Arrábida Natural Park. There’s a large paid car park, or you can park further away for free.

Where to eat at Praia da Comporta

Comporta Café & Beach Club – you can dine or rent lounges and beach umbrellas in the summer here
Comporta Café Kiosk – a cheaper snack bar on the beach linked to the restaurant
Ilha do Arroz – of all the beach restaurants, this one seems to be te most relaxed with a more traditional menu of grilled fish and seafood rice.

Need to know about Praia da Comporta

There are lifeguards in the summer months
You can rent umbrellas and lounge chairs in the summer
Parking is around €5 in the car park during summer, or free if you park further away

Carvalhal Beach (Praia do Carvalhal)

Heading south, you’ll pass Praia da Torre and Praia dos Brejos on your way to Carvalhal village. Both those beaches are harder to reach, and I don’t think they have lifeguards. I’ve been on Torre Beach with Cavalos na Areia, and I recall it being completely wild and totally empty as we rode along the shore on horseback (more on that below!)

It means the next main beach is Praia do Carvalhal, another gorgeous golden stretch of sand closer to the village with two great restaurants and a surf school, Surf in Comporta.

Where to eat at Praia do Carvalhal

Sublime Beach Club – beautiful, sleek beach restaurant with a slightly bohemian feel. Great spot for sunset drinks. Open for lunch and dinner from February to December.
Sal – vibrant seafood restaurant with striped umbrellas, plus it has a little boutique attached.

Need to know about Praia do Carvalhal

There are lifeguards in the summer months
Carvalhal has reduced mobility access to the beach
You can rent umbrellas and lounge chairs in the summer from both restaurants
Parking is around €5 in the car park, or free if you park further away
Surf In Comporta surf school operates here

Pego Beach (Praia do Pego)

The quieter Pego Beach is Comporta’s third main stretch of sand, and this golden beach continues for no less than 4 kilometres (2.5 miles), and is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe.

Where to eat at Praia do Pego

JNcQUOI Beach Club Restaurant – the JNcQUOI brand is famous in Lisbon for its high-end restaurants on the capital’s fanciest street. Expect a similar vibe (and price) from the beach version
Praia na Comporta – an apré-ski themed restaurant set back in the dunes. Seems to open only mid-June until end of August. Is connected to Praia no Parque in Lisbon.

Need to know about Praia do Pego

There are lifeguards in the summer months
You can rent umbrellas and lounge chairs in the summer
Parking is around €5 in the car park, or free if you park further away
Imagine Surf School operates here

The best things to do in Comporta

When you tire of sunshine, sand and the sea, there are other things to do in Comporta….

Ride horses along the beach

Meet your steed then trot through the rice paddies, over wild dunes, and onto a hard-to-reach beach that will likely be deserted with Cavalos na Areia. I’ve done this experience and can hands-down say it was incredible, even in winter (yes, we did it in February and had gorgeous weather!). Certainly one of the most magical ways to experience the coastal landscape of Comporta.

I had a sassy and slightly mischievous horse called Chanel (say hi to her!), while my friend rode “Madonna’s favourite horse”. Yes, the world-famous pop star would visit almost every weekend and go riding when she lived in Lisbon.

Shop for special things at unique boutiques in Comporta and Carvalhal

Comporta village is well-known for its independent and high-end boutiques with beautiful clothing and interior items. My best shopping tip is to just carve a lap of the center of the village – there’s only a few streets – where you’ll find plenty of cool brands and artisanal items to shop. That said, my favourite stores are Lavanda and Loja do Museu do Arroz. I also love the Casa da Cultura, which houses a marketplace of mini stores within the warehouse-like space.

The other village that is starting to pop with a handful of stores is quiet Carvalhal. Here I adore Caju (it might be my favourite of all stores) where you’ll find ceramics, clothing and a café. There’s also Stork Club, with it’s super unique furniture and design, and Fashion Clinic, with its Gucci pop-up and luxury labels.

Sit down for a fancy seafood lunch by the beach

Nothing says “I’m on vacation” like a long seafood lunch at the beach. I listed the beach bars, restaurants and clubs that you’ll find here above in the beaches section, and you can explore them below in my Comporta restaurants guide. But be warned, there’s no relaxed fish grill here – expect to spend big.

Walk on the the Cais Palafítico da Carrasqueira

For a unique sunset spot, drive out to the Cais Palafítico da Carrasqueira. This is a rickety, zig-zagging pier, built in the 1950s and ‘60s by local fishermen. It’s apparently one of the last of its kind in Europe, where the irregular wooden stilts appear very rustic. The pier is set on the Sado Estuary, and it’s a unique spot to watch the sunset, take photographs, or go birdwatching. Near here, I’m a fan of a local no-fuss tasca called Retiro do Pescador.

Take a boat trip along the Sado to Alcácer do Sal

From the Cais Palafitico da Carrasqueira, you can board a little boat for a unique trip up the Sado River towards the town of Alcácer do Sal. Along the way you’ll discover the protected Sado Estruary, possibly seeing flamingos, oyster farmers and rice fields as you travel inland. Once in Alcácer do Sal, you’ll explore the historic center of this town, which was founded by the Phoenicians, and renamed Salacia by the Romans. Alcácer was once an important Roman city for salt production, fish curing, garum, wheat, olive oil and wine.

Or go dolphin watching off Troia

North of Comporta, if you follow that skinny slip of land to the tip you’ll find Troia. This was once the heart of Roman garum production, a type of fish sauce. But now it’s a spot with glitzy hotels and a casino. The reason to go here is to board a dolphin watching cruise on the Sado River and Arrábida Natural Park. I’ve been on a boat in this area many times, and last time we spent maybe an hour watching the local dolphins splash about around us. They are so curious and it was really bloody cool! Book a private boat for your group.

Join a wine tasting

With salty air and sandy soils, the Comporta area offers a unique terroir to wine makers. Here there are many vineyards squeeze between pine forests and rice fields, close to the sea. Sandy soil is low in nutrients, so the vines produce low yields yet quality grapes. You can taste the region at Herdade de Comporta on a tasting and tour just outside the main village (I really love the rosé), or try Breijinhos da Costa, who make one of my favourite sweet moscatels.

Visit the Rice Museum

Before tourism, Comporta was all about agriculture – and as you’ll see, farmland and rice fields are still all around. There’s a small museum set in an old rice husking factory, which dates back to 1952 and celebrates the region’s farming identity. To visit you need to book in advance and have at least 10 people, so unfortunately I’ve never had the chance to visit. You can combine your visit with a winery tour at Herdade de Comporta.

Take a surf lesson

If the waves of Atlantic Ocean beckon, you can zip up a wetsuit and and venture out to hang 10. Both Surf in Comporta (Praia do Carvalhal) and Imagine Surf School (Praia do Pego) offer lessons and board rentals.

The best restaurants, bars and cafés in Comporta

As a rural summer destination, not all restaurants will be open year-round. Check individual social media pages for opening hours and months.

Cheap eats in Comporta

Here’s a round-up of top bakeries and fast and casual spots that you can find around the region.

Gulato Gelato – Comporta’s artisanal gelato store has it’s main location in the village of Possanco, but I’ve found pop-up stalls inside shops and at cafés across the region. It’s really good.
Gomes Padaria – cutest little bakery connected to Comporta’s family-run grocery store. Everything I’ve ordered from here has been fantastic – last time i tried this sweet potato bread that was fluffy and laced with cinnamon.
Sal Burger – in Carvalhal, this is a gourmet burger food truck and terrace from the beachfront restaurant Sal. I believe burgers are around €12 a pop, making it cheaper and more casual than most spots!
Piadinas Zanotta – in Comporta, this Italian spot servies piadinas (a type of sandwich) and drinks from a permanent food truck.
Simone French Bakery – in Carvalhal. Comporta first blew up in the French media, so it doesn’t surprise me that there’s an artisanal French bakery now. You can grab bread, pastries and gourmet sandwiches here.
Be Bar – in Comporta village. This bar in the main village is not pretentious with wines by the glass for €4.50 and has a cute little terrace. We enjoyed trying the local craft beer, a rice lager, here.

Local spots in Comporta

These are the restaurants that you’ll find locals or Portuguese on holiday dining at.

Retiro do Pescador

Dona Bia

Dona Bia – located in Torre along the main road, Dona Bia is a Comporta classic – open for more than 40 years – that serves a seafood-heavy menu of traditional dishes. I recently had the massada, a fish stew pasta, and the broth was so so rich.
Rei Dos Caracóis – in Carvalhal. What I love about Carvalhal is that it’s a tiny village with nothing except for the boujee JNcQUOI Deli Bar, a Gucci pop-up, a pharmacy, and this place called ‘King of the Snails!’. For afternoon Super Bock beers and petiscos (tapas) of octopus salad, clams, and snails (in the summer months), you can eat here.
Retiro dos Pescadores – just a classic local Portuguese restaurant in Moitinha with lots of seafood dishes and the local specialty, massada de peixe (fish pasta stew). Across the road, O Gonçalves is said to have a great fish grill too, and around the corner you’ll find Frango Assado da Carrasqueira (grilled charcoal chicken).

Worthy treat in Comporta

These spots are a little fancier than the above, but you might like to consider them for a date night or special lunch out.

Cavalariça – this gorgeous restaurant in Comporta village is set in an old stables. Chef Bruno Caseiro is among Portugal’s best and he serves and inventive menu of share plates. (Pictured left)
ŌRA, Spatia Comporta’s signature restaurant is run by young chef Afonso Carvalho, who gives modern twists to Alentejo classics. His seafood rice (pictured) is unreal.
Gomes Champagne Bar, Grocery Store & Restaurant – One can’t mention Comporta without talking about the Gomes family. It all started with the Mercearia Gomes, which these days has everything from coffee to caviar. On the same block you’ll find the aforementioned Gomes Padaria, plus a gorgeous little bar that serves brunch and espumunte (Portuguese sparkling wine), and a restaurant with elevated yet homely Portuguese dishes.
Almo Comporta – This all-day diner in Comporta village is one of the best spots for brunch, snacks or lunch.
Mesa Comporta – open since 2023, this relative newcomer serves a farm-to-table menu in Comporta village.
Sado – Near Mesa, chic Sado overlooks the rice fields of Comporta and serves a menu of elevated Portuguese staples, including some Alentejo specialties.
JNcQUOI Deli – I’m obsessed with tascas and Portuguese artisans, so this self-described “Alentejo pop tasca” is high on my to-eat list, once I can get over the prices. It’s in Carvalhal.
Canalha Comporta – a coastal edition of one of Lisbon’s best produce-driven restaurants, led by chef João Rodrigues. Open at Sublime Comporta in 2025 until the end of October.

Dining at the beach in Comporta

As mentioned, the beach bars and restaurants at Comporta’s three main beaches are expensive, with starters around €20.

Comporta Beach

Comporta Café & Beach Club – you can dine or rent lounges and beach umbrellas in the summer here
Comporta Café Kiosk – a cheaper snack bar on the beach linked to the restaurant
Ilha do Arroz – of all the beach restaurants, this one seems to be te most relaxed with a more traditional menu of grilled fish and seafood rice.

Praia do Carvalhal

Sublime Beach Club – beautiful, sleek beach restaurant with a slightly bohemian feel. Great spot for sunset drinks. Open for lunch and dinner from February to December.
Sal – vibrant seafood restaurant with a little boutique attached.

Pego Beach

JNcQUOI Beach Club Restaurant – the JNcQUOI brand is famous in Lisbon for its high-end restaurants on the capital’s fanciest street. Expect a similar vibe (and price) from the beach version
Praia na Comporta – an apré-ski themed restaurant set back in the dunes. Seems to open only mid-June until end of August. Is connected to Praia no Parque in Lisbon.

When to visit Comporta

As a coastal destination, Comporta is at its peak in the summer months when the beaches are busy, restaurants are all open, sun loungers are out, and there are pop-up markets in town.

That said, perhaps the best time to visit Comporta is actually the shoulder months – spring or autumn – when it’s a little quieter and prices are lower. September is one of my favourite months in Portugal, and it can still be warm enough to enjoy glorious beach days in bikini in October.

If you’re not a massive beach person, or enjoy cooler beach days, then off-season is great and you can still go dolphin watching, horseback riding along the beach, or enjoy a drink by the waterfront. Winter is also the best time for swells, so keen surfers will disappointed by flat ocean in the summer.

How to get to Comporta

Comporta is an 80-minutes drive from Lisbon. If you’re coming internationally, then you must fly to Lisbon first to reach Comporta.

From the capital, the best way to travel is by car – either a rental or private driver. You can search for the best rates across numerous rentalc companies with Discover Cars. I’d suggest having a car in Comporta, as it is a rural region and having wheels gives you the freedom to explore more freely.

If you prefer to take a transfer, some resorts do have shuttle buses that will take you to the beaches and back too. You can try this private transfer service, or use Bolt or Uber too.

Public transport is infrequent and slim. From Lisbon you could take the train to Setúbal, then walk down to the ferry port and catch the ferry across the Sado Estuary to Troia. From there, the 8148 bus departs twice a day and takes 15 minutes. Honestly, you’re better off getting a taxi from Troia.

Portuguese artisans: 11 traditional crafts from the Alentejo

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Thu, 16 Jan 2025 09:55:43 +0000

I love meeting local artisans, watching them work, and hearing their stories. Here in Portugal, I regularly visit craft fairs and workshops to meet the people who work with their hands, often continuing a family trade many generations in the making.

One Portuguese region that stands out for its strong traditional crafts and artisans is the Alentejo, the region east and south-east of Lisbon. Here time moves a little slower and these craftspeople have the space and support to continue their work. Of course, we’re at a point where many of these crafts that once sustained families – like basket weaving and clay pots – are no longer needed, and younger generations don’t wish to continue on the same path.

But there are still active workshops where you can connect with artisans, learn about Portuguese heritage, and give value to the trade. From pottery to rug weaving to olive oil to Portugal’s last cowbell makers, here are some of the artisans and traditional crafts you can connect with in the Alentejo.

Chocalhos Pardalinho – the last of the cowbell makers

The soundtrack to the Alentejo is still the gentle ding, ding, ding of cowbells. The making of cowbells is a surprisingly complex craft, traditionally passed from father to son. It has a long history in the village of Alcáçovas, south of Évora. Here you can visit Chocalhos Pardalinho to explore the art.

I was not expecting much – cowbells are just a sheet of metal, right? – but I was truly mesmerised by the complex, manual process of making and tuning these artisanal bells. After bending, baking and cooling, each bell is tuned by a master who knows how to create a strong, long and pleasant sound that will travel across the fields.

How to visit: Email ahead or call to organise a visit as this is a workshop.

Meet Portugal’s last cowbell makers: Chocalhos Pardalinho

Olaria Patalim – traditional terracotta pottery in Corval

São Pedro do Corval is the largest pottery centre in the Iberian Peninsula. In this village you’ll find 21 pottery houses, each working with terracotta clay to produce traditional Portuguese ceramics. One of the best known family-run terracotta workshops is Olaria Patalim.

Here you can meet siblings Rui (a potter) and Nelia (a painter), who have split the multi-generation family business into two. Each workshop is unique in style yet united by the red clay, spun on wheels in front of you.

How to visit: You can simply drop in during opening hours to shop the retail offering at each workshop and check out the artisanal process.

Other Alentejo pottery towns: The towns of Redondo, Nisa, and Viana do Alentejo also have a rich terracotta pottery heritage that still persists today.

Portugal’s pottery village: Why you should visit São Pedro do Corval

Vila dos Frades – village of Alentejo talha wines

Portugal’s connection to the ancient Roman Empire continues to this day through its talha wines. This method of wine making – using large clay amphorae, or talhas – is a technique that dates back some 2,000 years. The fermentation process takes place entirely in these unlined clay vessels, which allow the wine to breathe and develop unique flavours while maintaining a natural temperature control.

The small Alentejo village of Vila dos Frades is the heart and soul of talha wines. Here these unfiltered wines made with native grape varietals are celebrated by a handful of winemakers.

How to visit: You can venture out to taste talha wines at a handful of cellar doors including Geracões da Talha and Honrado Vineyards

Talha wine day trip: This all-day winery tour from Lisbon takes you to Vila dos Frades where you’ll experience the tavern culture and talha wine traditions.

Bonecos de Estremoz / Estremoz figurines

The Alentejo town of Estremoz has a very cute tradition – clay figures. Since the 17th century it’s said women started making saints for their own houses, carved from wood. Clay was cheaper and so the tradition evolved. Now there are about 10 artisans dedicated to this UNESCO World Heritage-recognised craft, and in addition to saints you’ll likely see folk-art-like figurines that reflect life in the Alentejo.

If you want to get to know this craft, start at the town’s Centro Interpretativo do Boneco de Estremoz. This small museum houses more than 100 of the figures with descriptions of past and present makers.

How to visit: Visit the museum, then set out to find a maker. Afonso Ginja has a workshop near the museum, and Irmãs Flores and Ricardo Fonseca share a workspace in the centre that is open as a shop too.

Fabricaal – Alentejo wool rug weaving

For more than 100 years the women of Reguengos have been weaving rugs in colours inspired by the region’s wildflowers. Their feet dance on four pedals, writing the score for various traditional patterns, while their hands swiftly pull ropes conducting the orchestra of tiny threads shooting back and forth across the loom.

Like all things manual, it can be hard to survive from generation to generation, but new, younger owners took over Fábrica Alentejana de Lanificios a few years ago. They introduced some more minimalist designs and started turning some of the rugs into new products such as pillows, bags, laptop sleeves and pouffes.

How to visit: Email or call to make an appointment for the workshop. The small fee will be taken off if you buy anything in the showroom.

Azeite Marvão – Olive oil museum and factory

António Melara Nunes’ grandfather opened this olive mill in 1954. Back then the small, sleepy and remote border village of Galegos had more than 500 residents (plus shops, bars, and services). Now just 30 people call it home. The mill closed in 1999, abandoned for a decade before António, who had made a life in Lisbon, returned to his roots. He restored the old mill, turning the vintage machinery into a museum and bringing in new equipment where he processes his organic olives from heritage trees – inviting the neighbours to make their own olive oil there too.

In the old buildings they have a beautiful space to taste the olive oil, and at Azeite Castelo de Marvão a group of us enjoyed an olive farmers’ traditional lunch spread, paired with wines (of course).

How to visit: email ahead to azeite@castelodemarvao.pt or WhatsApp: +351 93 802 92 50

Botas Alentejanas / Alentejo leather boots

Alentejo boots, or botas alentejanas, are a symbol of the region’s rural heritage, traditionally worn by shepherds and farmers. In the Alentejo a handful of artisans, such as Jerónimo Gaudêncio and Mário João Grilo, still craft beautiful and durable leather shoes. Mário, who makes boots in the town of Cuba, first stepped into a shoemaker’s workshop aged 12 and now has 40 years’ experience doing what he loves.

While the more traditional taller Alentejo boots aren’t exactly on trend, these leather artisans use the same techniques to make high-quality timeless high-top lace-up or pull-on boots at essentially the same price as high street. Yes, made-just-for-you hand-stitched leather boots within your budget.

How to visit: You’ll have to message the makers on Instagram to order direct or see if they pop up at a market. I’m also a fan of Valentim, a third-generation boot maker that is often at the Belém market in Lisbon.

Arraiolos stitched wool rugs

The town of Arraiolos is famous for its rugs. Heavy, cross-stitched carpets that date back many centuries. The origins are a bit of a mystery. The oldest documented reference dates back to 1598, but recent archeological digs uncovered ancient vats used to dye wool, suggesting production dates back much further.

Start at the Centro Interpretativo do Tapete de Arraiolos, a modern museum space that’s easy and quick to digest. Here you can view rugs from the 17th century, some showing much older designs inspired by oriental compositions likely based on rugs imported from Turkey and Persia at the dawn of the modern age. There’s often someone in the museum weaving a rug, so you can see how the stitches work and how manual the process is.

How to visit: After the museum, I’d wander down Rua Alexandre Herculano, the main shopping street in the old town, to visit half a dozen stores dedicated to the artform. You’ll be able to see women hard at work and shop for a full-size rug, or a smaller souvenir.

Day trip from Lisbon: If you’re short on time, you could join this top-rated private full-day tour from Lisbon to explore the rug culture of Arraiolos along with Évora.

Zezinha – Movéis Alentejanos / Alentejo furniture

If you stay in a guesthouse with character, you might see traditional Alentejo furniture. These are colourful wooden pieces – beds, wardrobes, dressers etc – hand-painted with Portuguese folk art motifs of flowers and leaves. If you want to take a piece home, you can visit Zezinha’s workshops and store in Redondo. If a dresser is too big, how about a beautiful hand-painted tea chest or serving tray?

How to visit: Drop into Avenida de Gien 5 in Redondo any day except Sunday.

Where to shop in Évora: artisans & boutiques

Olaria Xico Tarefa & Olaria Poço Velho – clay pottery in Redondo

The tradition of clay pottery in Redondo dates back more than 500 years, but while there were once 40 workshops in town producing functional terracotta pieces not there are just a handful of artisans. I’m a huge fan of master Xico Tarefa, a friendly character who has been crafting with clay since he was 13. He has an amazing little studio in the middle of town.

My other favourite stop in Redondo is Olaria Poço Velho where local clay is still processed, like in the old days, and pieces are fired in a traditional wood-fired kiln. The space is a step back in time.

How to visit: Just drop into either shop and studio during opening hours. You can find out more in my guide to the potteries of Redondo.

Tapeçarias de Portalegre – wool tapestries

Textile art is the only way to describe the intricately woven masterpieces hand knotted by the artisans at Tapeçarias de Portalegre. This tapestry studio, which launched in 1948 based on older traditions, is famous for its quality handwomen woollen tapestries. The artisans often recreate real artworks in textile form, drawing on more than 7,000 colours to choose from. Each is woven from the ground up,

How to visit: Portalegre Tapestries has a gallery in Lisbon (Rua Academia das Ciências, 2J, near Bairro Alto) that’s open Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, or you can visit the factory showroom in Portalegre on weekdays – just phone ahead.

Have you met any artisans in the Alentejo that I should know about? Leave a comment…

Keep reading…

The post Portuguese artisans: 11 traditional crafts from the Alentejo appeared first on Olá Daniela.

Meet Portugal’s last cowbell makers: Chocalhos Pardalinho

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Tue, 17 Dec 2024 10:36:00 +0000

Saving the voice of the fields

The Alentejo is a land of slow living, where the beautiful landscape unfolds like a painting. The soundtrack to the ancient olive groves and frozen centennial cork trees is the gentle ding, ding, ding of cowbells. It’s not uncommon to cross paths with a shepherd, letting his flock roam free in the pastures. But not too free; they still need to find the animals and be able to tell their sheep or goats from their neighbours’. Thank goodness for bells!

A tradition passed from father to son

The making of cowbells is a craft traditionally passed from father to son, and it has a long history in the village of Alcáçovas, south of Évora. Here you can visit Chocalhos Pardalinho to explore the art of making cowbells. I was not expecting much – cowbells are just a sheet of metal, right? – but was absolutely mesmerised by the technical and complex process of making and tuning (yes, tuning) these artisanal bells.

At the end of July each year the town of Alcaçovas holds the Feira do Choalho, a fair celebrating the town’s tradition of cowbell making. In 2025 the festivals fall from 25 – 27 July. More information.

Witness the art of making chocalhos

There are only a handful of men left dedicated to the craft, so it felt very special to see the whole process. It starts, as you’d expert, with a sheet of metal, which varies in thickness depending on the size of the cowbell. The master artisan slices it to size then bends it around an anvil with a hammer. Here he bangs in ears, and adds a handle and the céu (heaven), a little loop where the badalo (clapper) will hang.

Into the oven they go

The bell is wrapped in paper, then a few pieces of brass are added before it gets cocooned inside a shell of clay and straw with a hole poked into the cavity. That’s left to dry in the sun.

Once dry, the bells are baked in an oven for about an hour at 1,250°C. While still piping hot, the craftsman removes them with a hook, rolling each on the floor so that the melted brass covers the bells evenly. The chocalhos are submerged in water to cool down, then the shell is cracked off to reveal a glistening golden bell – much prettier than the iron one that went in.

Each bell is then individually tuned

The brass helps make the cattle bells last longer, plus it gives each bell a beautiful sound. Each bell is tuned by a master with decades of experience. The goal is to make each bell create a strong, long and pleasant sound that will travel across the plains. The bells are adjusted to remove any unstable sound waves.

Apparently some shepherds will request a specific note to signify their flock – that might mean making 100 bells for an order of 20 to get the tones right. Once tuned, the bell is polished and the wooden clapper and a leather band are added.

On UNESCO’s list of Intangible Heritage

The art of making cowbells has been slowly slipping away due to a few reasons – beyond more industrial techniques, there are less shepherds and more farmers with fences (who have no need for bells to identify their flocks).

Portugal’s chocalhos have been classified as UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity to try and preserve this ancient craft. There are just 13 master craftsmen left, and only a handful of those are under 70 and still working.

Where to experience the art of cowbell making

If you’re interested, you can email or call Chocalhos Pardalinho to see this all for yourself at their workshop in Alcáçovas. It sounds like they have a “bell maker for a day” experience too. When I was there the younger apprentice showed us how it was done and he spoke really fantastic English.

Also in the village you can visit the Museu do Chocalho (Cowbell Museum) to see a private collection of more than 3,000 items gathered over 60 years.

If you can’t make it to Alcáçovas, there is another family of chocalhos – the Sim Sim family – in Estremoz who have run the Casa Galileu shop for more than 50 years. Inside you’ll find bells made by three generations of the same family along with other crafts from the region.

I visited Chocalhos Pardalinho with the help of Visit Alentejo.

Portuguese artisans: 11 traditional crafts from the Alentejo

18 best places to visit in the Alentejo: prettiest villages, towns and cities

Daniela Sunde-Brown — Mon, 25 Nov 2024 11:22:09 +0000

The Alentejo region is easily one of my favourite parts of Portugal to explore. There’s something instantly relaxing about being out in the countryside, passing fields where sheep and black pigs graze beneath cork tree forests and ancient olive groves. With each vineyard and whitewashed village that flashes by the car or train window, time slows a little more.

For a chilled out long weekend or a delicious week of slow travel, there’s nowhere better to escape to from Lisbon. I’m based in the Portuguese capital and have made many many trips to visit the Alentejo’s most beautiful villages, towns and small cities.

But be warned, it’s not small! The Alentejo has just 500,000 people and is one-third of the country. Villages and towns are spread out, giving you plenty of space to breathe deep and connect with the terra (earth). I’ve split the best places to visit into central and north Alentejo, coastal Alentejo, and lower or Baixo Alentejo.

How far is the Alentejo from Lisbon?

Great question… it’s both really close and terribly far. If you jump in a car you can reach the Alentejo region in just 20 or 30 minutes, but if you’re heading to somewhere close to the border with Spain you might be driving two or more hours.

There’s a good train line between Lisbon and the Alentejo capital, Évora. It doesn’t really stop anywhere else though, so without a car you’ll be reliant on the bus or coach network.

➼ Wish someone could shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls to help cut through the noise and plan your perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Best places to visit in North & Central Alentejo (Alto Alentejo & Alentejo Central)

Évora, the Alentejo capital

90-minute drive from Lisbon (Google Maps), option of train from Lisbon too

Underrated Évora is one of my favourite cities in Portugal. The UNESCO-listed historic centre is almost entirely surrounded by medieval walls, wrapping- 2,000 years of history into a walkable package. The walls contain a labyrinth of squares, parks, churches and landmarks, from a Roman temple to the grand medieval cathedral.

There’s loads to see, amazing traditional sweets, fantastic restaurants, great museums, and brilliant local shopping. Plus just beyond the city walls you’ll be back in the countryside where vineyards, cork trees, olive groves, and prehistoric monuments lie.

Monsaraz, a hilltop medieval village

2-hour, 10-minute drive from Lisbon, 55-minutes from Évora (Google Maps)

The medieval hilltop village of Monsaraz is another of my favourite places in all of Portugal. There’s something magical about this tiny place. With just a handful of slate-lined streets, whitewashed houses, an imposing castle and just 30 residents, it’s at once a lively place and somewhere where time moves in an alternate universe.

This area of the Alentejo region is dotted with cute towns, wineries, olive groves, prehistoric monuments and the biggest artificial lake in Europe, Alqueva Lake. It’s an incredible place to watch the sunset while breathing deep and thinking about life’s great mysteries.

Read next… 48 hours in Monsaraz

Corval, the pottery village

2-hour drive from Lisbon, 45-minutes from Évora (Google Maps)

Just down the hill from Monsaraz lies Portugal’s pottery village: São Pedro do Corval. It’s not a particularly pretty village, but here between the fields of ancient olive groves, cork trees, and almonds are almost two dozen small-scale family-run pottery houses, each working with terracotta clay to produce traditional and colourful Portuguese ceramics.

Step inside any doorway that says “olaria” (pottery workshop) and you’ll often find both a workshop and retail store in the one space. Men covered in red dirt spin the rich, red terracotta clay into plates, jugs and cups on the wheel as steady-handed painters add colourful traditional scenes or modern designs to the pieces.

Estremoz, the Alentejo town with the marble tower

1-hour 45-minute drive from Lisbon, 35 minutes from Évora (Google Maps)

Estremoz is a larger town in the Alentejo, whose long history stretches back to 1258. This typical Alentejo town, close to the Spanish border, has a fortified old town with a white marble tower you can climb to the top of. Get lost in the streets, following footpaths lined with crushed marble offcuts, until your nose takes you to a local tavern for lunch, or into Howard’s Folly for a wine tasting. On Saturdays, the local feira (temporary market) is legendary, bringing in locals and farmers with cheese, vegetables, antiques, vintage goods and all sorts.

Read next… Best things to do in Estremoz

Elvas, the fortified border town

2-hour drive from Lisbon, 55 minutes from Évora (Google Maps)

Set on a hill just a few miles from the large Spanish city of Badajoz, Elvas has a storied history closely linked to war and resistance. While it has Moorish roots, with some traces left in the old town, and a medieval castle, it was only after the Restauração da Independência (Restoration of Independence) in 1640 that the whole Alentejo town was fortified.

You feel this history as you walk or drive in, passing these thick walls that protect the whole city. From within you might spy the Fortaleza de Santa Luzia (Santa Lucía Fort) or the Nossa Senhora da Graça Fort, on either side of the city forming a line of protection against Spain. You can learn more at the Elvas Military Museum.

Arraiolos, for rugs and pies

80-minute drive from Lisbon, 20 minutes from Évora (Google Maps)

Cross-stitched rugs, small chicken pies, and a round castle are the things that define Arraiolos, an Alentejo town close to Évora. Wander the whitewashed streets trimmed with mustard yellow or cobalt blue — this is the Alentejo, afterall — before you stop for a quick empada da galinha (chicken pie) or take your time with lunch at O Alpendre.

The rug museum (Centro Interpretativo do Tapete de Arraiolos) is a great place to learn about the craft heritage and see women in action, and nearby the Pousada Convento Arraiolos has a gorgeous chapel filled with blue-and-white azulejos.

Portuguese artisans: 11 traditional crafts from the Alentejo

Vila Viçosa, for marble and the Ducal Palace

1-hour 50-minute drive from Lisbon, 45 minutes from Évora (Google Maps)

I knew Vila Viçosa was famous for its marble and the Paço Ducal de Vila Viçosa (Ducal Palace), but I didn’t realise it would be such a charming Alentejo town to visit. With royal roots, a castle, and marble and orange tree-lined streets, it’s a grand little place with plenty to explore.

Stroll down the stately Avenida da República, then dip into the medieval castle quarter, within the walls of which lie a couple of streets lined with tiny houses. In the town you’ll find many grand marble-clad churches, marble fountains, and the original House of the Dukes of Bragança, the third Portuguese royal dynasty, who called the enormous Ducal Palace home for 500 years. It’s covered in black and white marble and you can step inside to catch a glimpse of the lifestyle of Portugal’s final dynasty.

Marvão, a hilltop village within a reserve

2.5-hour drive from Lisbon, 1.5 hours from Évora (Google Maps)

Standing at the top of Marvão Castle’s keep, looking out over the rugged landscape of Parque Natural de São Mamede, you’ll feel more alive than ever as you breathe it all in. Similar to Monsaraz, this medieval hilltop village, which is perched on a quartzite crag, has just a handful of streets but an entirely different feeling.

The village leans into its Moorish roots, with the name Marvão coming from an 8th-century Muwallad rebel named Ibn Marwan. I hope to return for the classical music festival that takes over the streets every year. It’s meant to be amazing.

Close to the village, we visited an olive oil mill once run by António Melara Nunes grandfather. He’s recently restored the project, Azeite Castelo de Marvão, breathing life back into the sleepy village of Galegos. Here you can learn about olive oil, do a tasting, stop for lunch, or even have them process your own olives into oil.

Other pretty villages and towns in the central and north Alentejo region

Here are a few more options to explore in this area of the Alentejo

Santa Susana: very small village with old workers cottages showing how people in these agricultural towns once lived
Nisa: famous for its terracotta pottery, embroidery and cheese! The town has medieval walls too.
Castelo de Vide: one of the best preserved Jewish quarters in Portugal, and famous for its healing waters.
Montemor-o-Novo: close to Évora, this large town has a pretty hilltop castle with gorgeous views.
Redondo: another cute larger town known for its pottery scene.
Terena: a village near Redondo with whitewashed houses and a castle.

Want help planning your trip across the Alentejo? Chat to Daniela with a private video call, or have her plan your Portugal itinerary

Best places to visit along the Alentejo coast and Costa Vicentina

Alcácer do Sal, for rice fields and a castle

65-minute drive from Lisbon, 1 hour from Évora (Google Maps)

Founded by the Phoenicians, and renamed Salacia by the Romans, the history of Alcácer do Sal stretches back thousands of years – yet this laidback Alentejo town remains largely off the radar. Set on the banks of the Sado River, historic Alcácer do Sal makes a great lunch stop on the way from Lisbon to Lagos, or vice versa.

The riverfront town overlooks a wide valley plain of rice fields, which change colour throughout the year and stretch on seemingly forever. While here don’t miss the Misericordia Church, consecrated in 1547, to find glorious hand-painted tiles from the 1600s, and a beautiful ceiling fresco by painter Francisco Flamengo in 1895. For lunch, try Momento, which serves up modern petiscos by the riverside.

Comporta, the luxe beach region

75-minute drive from Lisbon or from Évora (Google Maps)

Just over an hour from Lisbon lie some of Portugal’s most beautiful beaches, where wild sand dunes and pine forests separate the icy Atlantic Ocean from rice fields and villages. These days Comporta is a place for Europe’s jetset crowd to gather for quiet and luxe barefoot vacations by the coast. Comporta is both a town and the name for the region, so there’s a bit of choice for exploring.

Melides, the relaxed and quiet town

85-minute drive from Lisbon, or from Évora (Google Maps)

Melides is Comporta’s more laidback neighbour. Here, slightly further south, you’ll find gorgeous wild beaches, seemingly endless farmland, and very little to do. That makes it the perfect place to unwind, reset, and truly relax. The town of Melides itself is charming, and during a summer visit I found the village square (next to the market) was abuzz with activity most nights.

Porto Covo, where the Portuguese go to the coast

1-hour 50-minute drive from Lisbon, or from Évora (Google Maps)

The beaches around Porto Covo are incredibly beautiful. It’s easy to get lost just contemplating the white sands and craggy black rock features. Plus Porto Covo itself is a whitewashed gem with vibrant cobalt blue trim, a charming central square, and great restaurants like Lamelas.

Vila Nova de Milfontes, where the river meets the sea

2.25-hour drive from Lisbon, or from Évora (Google Maps)

Set at the mouth of the River Mira, Vila Nova de Milfontes is surprisingly gorgeous. I could perch myself on a bench at the lookout near Forte de São Clemente and watch the tides ebb and flow and a little passenger ferry shuffles people across the river forever.

This laidback beach town is the perfect midway point on a road trip from Lisbon to the Algarve but it’s also a great spot to escape – and the Alentejo town has everything you need, including great restaurants. Go for breakfast croissants at Mabi, or a sunset drink at A Choupana on the beach.

Zambujeira do Mar, on the Costa Vicentina

2.5-hour drive from Lisbon, or from Évora (Google Maps)

While Zambujeira do Mar is indeed a famous fishing village along the Costa Vicentina, you really come here for the wild beaches, steep cliffs, and sense of space. This is the last stretch of coast before the Algarve, and the best way to explore is on the Fishermen’s Trail, one of the greatest coastal hikes in the world, which stretches 226.5 km from Sines, in the Alentejo, to Lagos, on the southern Algarve coast.

Other towns to visit on the Alentejo coast

Sines (pictured): one of Portugal’s largest ports has a cute historic centre with a castle. The famous Vasco da Gama is from here and there’s a great statue of the 15th century explorer.
Almograve: a little town south of Vila Nova de Milfontes that’s the perfect base for weekends by the beach.
And if you keep going south…you’ll hit the western Algarve where beloved quiet surf towns such as Arrifana, Aljezur, and Odeceixe lie.

Best towns to visit in Baixo Alentejo (Lower Alentejo)

The lower half of the Alentejo is quieter, slower, and more arid than the central belt and coast. Here’s the best Baixo Alentejo towns to explore.

Mértola, with islamic roots by the Spanish border

2.25-hour drive from Lisbon, 1-hour 40 minutes from Évora (Google Maps)

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High on my list for 2025 Portugal travel is Mértola, a walled border town set overlooking the Guadiana River. The Romans, Visigoths, and Moors all left their mark here in what was once one of the most important river ports in the Mediterranean. Now the town celebrates its Moorish roots with the biannual Islamic Festival, which is on again in May 2025 and then in 2027. If you visit in between you can still see the Castle of Mértola, which towers over the town, along with a handful of pretty churches and a clock tower.

Serpa, a village of cheese

2-hour drive from Lisbon, 75 minutes from Évora (Google Maps)

Each year in February, Serpa hosts the annual Feira do Queijo do Alentejo (that’s the Alentejo cheese festival!). If you’re not there during the big cheese part, there’s an amazing 13th-century castle, 17th-century aqueduct and a cute centre to explore.

Viana do Alentejo, a quiet town with two landmarks

1-hour 45-minute drive from Lisbon, 30 minutes from Évora (Google Maps)

I love this typical Alentejo town. Everyone milling about the town square turned their heads when we entered, wondering where these out-of-towners came from. We popped in one morning to visit the octagonally-shaped Viana do Alentejo Castle, which was remodelled in the 15th century. Then we drove to the Santuário de Nossa Senhora d’Aires, a wedding cake of a church that is unlike any other I’ve seen in Portugal (inside and out). The unique “house of miracles” is filled with photographs of family members. It’s the end point of an annual pilgrimage on horseback that begins in Moita.

Beja, the rural capital with Roman roots

1-hour 50-minute drive from Lisbon, 1 hour from Évora (Google Maps)

Beja is the largest town in the Baixo Alentejo and home to the highest castle in the whole Alentejo region, which you can summit the 40m-high keep. The small city has roots that date back 2,500 years and you can explore the Jewish and Moorish quarters of the old city, see the cathedral, and catch plenty of events throughout the year.

Other hidden gems and cute towns in Baixo Alentejo

Moura: a fantastic fortified town with a well-preserved Moorish quarter and ruins of a 13th-century castle. It’s close to Alqueva Lake, the largest artificial lake in Europe.
Alvito: a little town built around an unusual castle (that you can sleep in!) with an amazing church and the chance to hear cante alentejano.
Vidigueira: this town is famous for wine! Visit to taste local talha wines aged in traditional terracotta vessels. Nearby lies the Roman ruins of São Cucufate too.
Messejana: cute town and a great lunch stop on the way from Lisbon to the Algarve.

Map of the most beautiful Alentejo villages, towns and cities

Below find a map of all the beautiful Alentejo towns and villages mentioned in this article.

That’s my pick of the best Alentejo towns, villages and cities. Anywhere else I should add to this list? Leave me a comment…

Keep reading…

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