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Monsaraz

Alentejo

Golden hour seems infinite in Monsaraz, a tiny mediaeval village perched on the highest hill for as far as the eye can see. The sun dawdles, drenching lakes, fields and ant-like cars in its gilded light from the western horizon all the way to Spain in the east. This village is just half a dozen streets lined with wonky white walls, oversized doors and thick, hand-made iron handles. The best place to see the sunset is from atop a turret in the castle, where you can watch darkness drift over a patchwork of cork fields, vineyards, olive groves and quintas.

GETTING THERE: 2-hour drive from Lisbon, 2.5 hours from Faro. You can also take a Rede Expresso coach to Reguengos de Monsaraz or Mourao and hike or take a taxi from there.

READ MORE: Complete Guide to Monsaraz

Monsanto

Central Portugal

Monsanto, sometimes called the rock village of Portugal, is a small mediaeval village set on a mountain rising up between the border with Spain and Portugal’s highest peak Serra de Estrela. Here thrifty villagers have sandwiched their homes and cottages between and around gigantic boulders. This unique landscape has shaped the identity of the village and the winding paths up to the massive fortress or castle. Most recently, Monsanto starred in the new Game of Thrones spin-off House of the Dragon. 

GETTING THERE: 3-hour drive from Lisbon, 4 hours from Porto. Rede Expresso has a daily coach service to the nearby Monsanto Relva village, just down the hill.

READ MORE: Exploring Monsanto, Portugal’s Rock Village

Óbidos

Lisbon region

Can you imagine receiving a small town as a wedding gift? This super cute mediaeval walled village about an hour north of Lisbon is what King Dinis gave Queen Isabel in 1282. Wander inside the fortified walls to find a cute village of typical white-washed buildings with yellow or blue trims. While in Óbidos be sure to taste the local liqueur, ginjinha. It’s one of Portugal’s most famous and is tastiest sipped from a tiny chocolate cup. 

Try and go in off-peak times as this is quite famous for being one of the best day trips from Lisbon. And keep an eye out for staircases up to the wall; you can usually wander around the edge, and no it’s not kid-safe.

GETTING THERE: 1-hour drive from Lisbon. There are frequent private coaches that can take you to Obidos.

Cacela Velha

Algarve

While the tidal flats below may rise and fall, life in this tiny white-washed village stands still. We were told to visit at low tide, when you can cross from the hilltop aldeia to the oceanfront beaches. Be sure to return in time for one of life’s most memorable meals at Casa da Igreja. Go just before 4.30pm when it opens (or be ready to wait) to dine on a parade of oysters, clams, presunto and white wine at tables spilling out over the church square.

GETTING THERE: 40-minute drive from Faro, or the local bus 66 will take 90 minutes.

Rio de Onor

Tras-os-Montes

At Portugal’s far north-eastern border, remote Rio de Onor is literally split down the centre by the border with Spain. On one side sits a typical Trás-os-Montes village, with two-story houses made of dark schist stone with wooden balconies, and a few steps away is Rihonor de Castilla, the Spanish side of the village. Together, the 70 or so inhabitants maintain an old-style communal lifestyle, sharing more than just their Portuguese–Spanish dialect known as Rionorês. 

On the day we wandered through, the sun was shining, older women were washing clothes in the steam that trickles through the village, old men were tending the communal fields, and visiting grandkids were playing football on the streets by the cafe. Apparently, until recently, this remote pocket was even governed by its own government and laws.

GETTING THERE: 2.5-hour drive from Porto, 5-hour drive from Lisbon.

Sintra

Lisbon region

There’s something mystical about this historic hilltop village filled with grand palaces and topped with an ancient castle. A summer playground for the rich during the 19th century, the romance of a bygone era is still alive and it’s fun to dress up and wander about palace halls, which you’ll have no shortage of. From Pena Palace and Monserrate to Quinta da Regaleira and the National Palace, you could spend the day immersed in these grand buildings, so long as you can face the tourists. Sintra is both close to Lisbon and no longer a secret, so it pays to time your visits wisely. If the people become too much, Sintra’s micro-climate makes the mountain itself an interesting place to explore. Giant boulders covered in green moss and off-road tracks offer a different kind of exploring on this day trip from Lisbon.

GETTING THERE: 25-minute drive from Lisbon, or 40-minute train from Rossio Station.

READ MORE: 29 best things to do in Sintra

Trancoso

Beira Alta

This walled town set almost 1000 metres above sea level once witnessed many battles in the fight to keep the Portuguese kingdom independent. Now a sleepier little stone village, Trancoso is marked as one of the 12 Historic Villages of Portugal, and it’s well worth visiting to stomp around the town walls and its beautiful castle. There was a strong Jewish presence here in the 16th century, with many curious marks still seen. If you’re interested in learning more, you can visit the Isaac Cardoso Interpretation Centre. Make sure you try the local sweet – sardinha doce. Sweet sardines! Nothing fishy about it.

GETTING THERE: 2-hour, 15-minute drive from Porto, or 3 hours and 45-minutes from Lisbon.

Ericeira

Lisbon Region

If you’ve dreamed of the white-washed coastal architecture of Portugal, then you’ll love Ericeira. Most of the houses are white with a striking cobalt blue trim, which pops nicely in photos against the bright blue sky. Ericeira is home to Europe’s only World Surf Reserve, so this small fishing village has grown in size to become a bit of a haven for surf- and yoga-loving expats. At the bigger end of destinations on this list, it’s one of the few where you can find good specialty coffee. On the way there pass through Mafra and see its giant palace.

GETTING THERE: 40-minute drive from Lisbon, or private bus with Mafrense from Campo Grande. Takes 1 hour to 1 hour and 40 minutes.

Estremoz

Alentejo

Estremoz is deep in the Alentejo region, a huge province known for its agriculture. Black pigs, sheep and cows graze beneath the never-ending fields of cork and olive trees. White-washed quintas with mustard yellow or cobalt blue trim dot the hillside, surrounded by mediaeval castle walls and creeping grape vines. Time moves slowly, people make more time for you, and if everyone is like our waiter friend, the people don’t speak so quickly either. Finally, a chance to practise Portuguese!

GETTING THERE: 90-minute drive from Lisbon, or a two-hour coach with Rede Expresso.

READ MORE: Complete Guide to Estremoz

Read next… 18 best places to visit in the Alentejo: prettiest villages, towns and cities

Guimarães

North Portugal

Welcome to the birthplace of Portugal. It was near here that Afonso Henriques won the Battle of São Mamede – against his own mother no less – establishing himself as the leader of the kingdom of Portugal. Its independence was recognised some years later in 1143, making him the first king of Portugal. From here, King Afonso fought his way south against the Moors, claiming land that is more or less the same borders we know as Portugal today.

Stepping into Guimarães is like stepping back in time. The entire historic centre is a protected World Heritage List site full of architecture from the 15th to 19th centuries. As you wander up streets of large stone pavers where jaunty buildings bulge over the road, it’s impossible not to wonder what life was like here in the Middle Ages. While technically a city, Guimarães still has a village feel and the architecture is insane – so that’s why I’ve included it in my list of the most beautiful villages and towns in Portugal.

GETTING THERE: 45-minute drive from Porto, or 1-hour train from Porto.

READ MORE: Complete Guide to Guimarães

Madalena do Mar

Madeira

Madeira is a wild and wonderful island to explore, and one of my favourite towns we stumbled upon during our trip is Madalena do Mar. The island has many tunnels that zip in and out of the unruly landscape, and you suddenly pop out in the land of bananas. This seaside town is 95 percent banana trees, and 5 percent a great fish spot. Drop into A Poita, a seafood joint run by an ex-fisherman. It’s one of the few places I found that serves the local fish stew known as fragateira. It’s massive, so bring friends.

GETTING THERE: 30-minute drive from Funchal.

READ MORE: Itinerary: Our magical 5-day Madeira Island road trip

Tavira

Algarve

Every room in historic Tavira has an individual roof, so in the old centre you’ll see dusty little terracotta spikes across town. Named one of the prettiest towns in the Algarve, this white-washed gem dates back to the Bronze Age and it was here the Phoenicians made one of their first settlements. Wander over the Roman bridge, tour the castle gardens, Roman ruins, and through cute squares before taking a ferry out to Ilha de Tavira where golden sandy beaches await. 

GETTING THERE: 30-minute drive from Faro, 3-hour drive from Lisbon. You can also take the regional train from Faro.

READ MORE: Where to eat in the Algarve

Idanha-a-Velha

Beira Baixa

We arrived at Idanha-a-Velha at rush hour. Someone was pruning roses, another villager grilled steak as a dog looked on, and one was hanging washing to catch patches of spring sunshine. The guidebooks made this historic village, surrounded by groves of olive trees, cork fields and yellow wildflowers, sound like an abandoned place with a few cute Roman remains. Instead the comical tunes of the grocery van rolled through as we knocked back an espresso, patted village dogs and watched life unfold.

Once a great city, but now just a village, there’s evidence of grander times past in Idanha-a-Velha. Archaeological digs show a Roman house and many artefacts, and you can freely wander open-air exhibits. It might not be the grand city of the past, but the village is most certainly still alive.

GETTING THERE: Approx. 3-hour drive from Lisbon or Porto. Public transport is complex – you could travel to Castelo Branco city, or take a Rede Expresso bus to Zebreira and then a taxi.

Miranda do Douro

Tras-os-Montes

It was 3.40pm and still no sight of them. Surely we’d hear the beat of the drums and sound of a bagpipe before they’d come into view. We asked in the cafe. We asked in the museum. The answer was the same. No one knew when the pauliteiros would arrive. I took my anxious energy off for a wander to blow off steam, hopeful to find them in the streets and tick off a few sights of Miranda do Douro. 

Sure enough, we found them. Four men and four women dressed in all white. The young men with hats and high socks like England’s Moorish dancers, and the women in embroidered vests. Two drummers and a bagpiper set the tone for this ancient Portuguese tradition with unexpectedly Celtic roots. You can find the Pauliteiros da Miranda on the streets one Saturday a month. The town itself sits on the border with Spain, perched high above the Douro River where it’s more like a ravine or a canyon. And fun fact, this pocket of Portugal speaks Mirandês, the second official language of Portugal.

GETTING THERE: 2-hour, 45-minute drive from Porto, 5-hour drive from Lisbon. The Rodonorte coach from Porto takes 4.5 hours.

Soajo

Peneda-Gerês National Park

When you go deep enough in Portugal you go back in time, and Soajo is a time-hopping destination. Two dozen peculiar stilted rock granaries stand on a massive granite rock with 360-degree views back to the villages in the hills of Portugal’s only national park. The Espigueiros do Soajo were mostly used to hold corn and the oldest dates back to 1782.

GETTING THERE: 90-minute drive from Porto.

Castro Marim

Algarve

From high on the hill, Castro Marim looks over salt fields, the Guadiana River and Spain, a strategic point with a long history. The best place to soak in these views is from the 14th-century castle walls that give you a bird’s eye view over the town. Afterwards, head down to the flats and float at the salt spa Água Mãe. The extremely salty water stings (not my favourite) but is well worth trying once.

GETTING THERE: 45-minute drive from Faro, 3-hour drive from Lisbon. You can also use local buses in the Algarve.

Need help planning your trip to Portugal? Book a one-on-one video call with Daniela and get custom help organising your perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Cute villages in Portugal that I still need to visit

I haven’t been everywhere, but these are on my list. Here are half a dozen more beautiful Portuguese villages and small towns that I’d love to visit one day soon.

• Marvão
• Sortelha
• Piodão
• Talasnal
• Mértola
• Castelo de Vide
• Dornes
• Messejana

Keep reading

• 13 best day trips from Lisbon
• How to spend 48 hours in Porto
• Best food festivals and events in Portugal in 2023

The post 16 most beautiful villages and small towns in Portugal appeared first on Olá Daniela.

Incredible scenery stretches endlessly in every direction beyond the preserved village walls. The worst thing about this place is choosing which side of the village to look at the view from. Half a dozen streets are lined with wonky white walls, oversized doors and thick, hand-made iron handles. The sunset bounces off the white before being swallowed up by dark slate cobblestones that pave the way to the ancient castle. 

Standing at the top of our own private turret we watched the glow slowly drift into darkness over a patchwork of cork fields, vineyards, olive groves and quintas.

On one side an enormous lake is a blue mirage in the dusty Mediterranean landscape. The only sounds are bells — the chorus of cows grazing kilometres away — and the clock tower in the village. 

What to do with 48 hours in Monsaraz

Monsaraz village is one of the most magical places I’ve stepped foot in. The sunset I described above is in my top five ever and I cannot wait to return. But Monsaraz is more than just this teeny, tiny hilltop village frozen in time. This area of the Alentejo region is dotted with cute towns, wineries, olive groves, prehistoric monuments and the biggest artificial lake in Europe. Here’s my suggestions for things to do and see in and around Monsaraz.

➼ Wish someone could shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls to help cut through the noise and plan your perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Wander Monsaraz Village

I know I keep going on about it but you definitely don’t want to miss the sunset from Monsaraz. The ancient village is small, with just a couple of restaurants, two wine bars and a handful of small artisanal shops that sell ceramics, gourmet food and locally made rugs. The castle and its turrets loom over the village and its bullring, offset by the bell tower at the other end of the hilltop hamlet.

Head down to Alqueva Lake

We’d just travelled more than 150km directly away from the ocean so I wasn’t expecting to be sunbaking on a golden sandy beach complete with lifeguards, flags and an impromptu volleyball game. But this is Europe’s largest artificial lake (or dam) and while its main job is to irrigate the entire Alentejo region, it’s a popular spot to swim, boat, waterski or even rent out a houseboat.

We dropped into Praia Fluvial de Monsaraz where a manicured park, cafe, beach and some tourism companies are set up. As far as beaches go, it’s not going to make the top 10 list for Portugal, but on a 30-something degree day, a dip in the lake was perfect.

Taste wine at Herdade do Esporão

Esporão is one of Portugal’s biggest winemakers and the mega property out here is impressive. I’m usually more into small-scale, quirky, independent producers but I was curious to see how one of the big guys does wine. 

Production here is state of the art after a 2018 refit but while the giant stainless steel wine-making facilities were cool to see, I found the aging process most interesting. Besides wine barrels and stainless steel, they work with marble, concrete and super traditional clay. Big concrete “tulipas” somewhat mimic the traditional terracotta “talhas” (see below), allowing the wine to breathe and take on a more minerally taste, rather than the warm notes you get from oak. Esporão still makes a small range of talha (amphora, not that the translation helps much in this case) wines matured in big clay pots that are more than 100 years old but it’s a tiny proportion of production.

The Alentejo already has notoriously hot summers putting it right in the climate change firing line. Esporão is running a fascinating project studying a field stocked with 180 different varieties to test their suitability to the region’s changing climate.

Watch incredible artisans weave rugs

For more than 100 years the women of Reguengos have been weaving rugs in colours inspired by the region’s wildflowers. Their feet dance on four pedals, writing the score for various traditional patterns, while their hands swiftly pull ropes conducting the orchestra of tiny threads shooting back and forth across the loom. Rug weaving at Fabrica Alentejana de Lanificios is a true art.

Just last year, new blood took over the factory with the promise to continue the rich tradition.  In a small nod to innovation, Antonio Carreteiro and his partners also introduced some more minimalist designs and started turning some of the rugs into new products such as pillows, bags and pouffes.

It’s absolutely worth making an appointment to tour the factory. One of the owners took us through, explaining the process and showing some of the old looms. Then we entered the main factory. Not much has changed it seems. The room is filled with giant, mostly wooden looms where three women are working away quietly. Click clack, click clack. One stops to spool wool from a bundle onto a smaller spool. Then it’s back to filing custom orders or making rugs for the showroom and the shop store in Monsaraz village.

Read next: Portuguese artisans: 10 traditional crafts from the Alentejo

Buy ALL the pottery at Corval

The tiny town of Sao Pedro do Corval has made a name for itself as Europe’s largest pottery centre. Step inside one of the storefronts and you’ll likely find both a shop and workshop. Men covered in red dirt spin terracotta clay into plates, jugs and cups on the wheel, while others paint the final pieces with colourful patterns and local designs. There are something like 25 individual pottery businesses or more in the village (and there’s only one ATM). Come ready with cash!

Read next… Portugal’s pottery village: Why you should visit São Pedro do Corval

Visit Portugal’s largest olive tree with a prehistoric monument

The gnarly twisted trees of this ancient olive grove are the perfect setting for an even older monument. Anta do Olival da Pega is believed to have been built between 3500 and 3000 BC and has witnessed at least 134 burials. Death aside, there’s something magical and moving about this patch of earth. We visited at dusk, the dimming light only adding to the atmosphere.

Next time we’ll head a little earlier to set up a picnic between the olive trees, some of which are estimated to be more than 2000 years old.

Read next… 18 best places to visit in the Alentejo: prettiest villages, towns and cities

Where to eat

Sabores do Monsaraz

You’ll know Isabel when you see her. She’ll hopefully pop over to your table, recite the day’s menu verbally and then discuss what you’d like. The lady of the house takes care of things while you just sit back and soak in the view over the lake from Monsaraz village. Sabores do Monsaraz is a must.

São Lourenço do Barrocal

I love a long lunch at rural luxury hotels and here, as expected, the restaurant is fantastic. Every meal we ate on this trip involved locally bred porco preto (black pig), the same pig used for prized iberian prosciutto. The dish here, served with migas, a traditional side made with bread and herbs, was phenomenal. After lunch we took the chance to explore the property and make friends with the horses.

Adega do Cachete

In Corval this local tasca served up the best traditional porco preto dish we’d had all trip. And a monster serving at that. The space is super rustic with lots of typical Alentejo objects adorning the walls, paper tablecloths, terracotta crockery (of course) and a TV (also of course) on the wall.

Also try: A Grelha, Taverna os Templários, Restaurante Sem-Fim

Where to stay

São Lourenço do Barrocal $$$

Maybe one day we’ll stay a night or two at this relaxed luxury hotel set on an incredible working property. With incredible design, a spa, multiple pools, horses and firepits, this is the sort of countryside luxury worth splurging on. Check availability & rates.

Casa Coração $

If, like us, you prefer to spend all your cash eating out and buying rugs, then this cute apartment we stayed in is a great option. Located on the edge of a small village, the newly renovated one-bedroom apartment was perfect for the two of us. It has a little rooftop and the owner was amazing – he spoke with us for nearly an hour giving us local tips. Check availability & rates.

In Monsaraz Village

Next time we’ll try to book a spot within the village walls. Given the sunset there is so amazing, I’d love to see a sunrise too. There are a few small Alojamento Local (local accommodation) guesthouses in town.

Have you been to magical Monsaraz? What else would you do with 48 hours in Monsaraz area? Leave me a comment…

Read next… 

• Portugal Road Trip: Where to stop between Lisbon and Porto
• 20 best things to do in Évora, the Alentejo capital
• 48 hours in Évora
• Best tile painting workshops in Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve
• Portuguese artisans: 10 traditional crafts from the Alentejo
• 22 most beautiful castles in Portugal
• 16 most beautiful villages and small towns in Portugal
• Portugal’s pottery village: Why you should visit São Pedro do Corval
• Bottomless wine and secret cellars: Redondo’s tasca and talha trail

The post How to spend 48 hours in Monsaraz appeared first on Olá Daniela.